Wireless Tips – Does Your Wireless Router Keep Disconnecting or Dropping the Connection?

I’ve had a Netgear wireless router for about a year now and it’s been pretty good until a couple of weeks back all of sudden my wireless connection kept dropping or I couldn’t connect unless I restarted the router! It was a royal pain, but because I’m lazy I didn’t get around to fixing it earlier! If you’re in the same situation, here’s what you can do to fix the problem!

The issue is usually caused by one of three things: the driver for your wireless card, the firmware version on your router (basically the driver for the router) or settings on your router. I have found that unless you’re using a really old wireless router, it’s more than likely an old driver for your wireless card that is the culprit. So you have to update the wireless card. How do we do that?

Update PC Driver

First, you’ll need to go to the web site for the manufacturer of your computer: Dell, HP, Toshiba, etc and go to their support or driver downloads page. Here I’ve tried to get the direct links to those pages for the most common computers:

Dell – http://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/19/Products/

HP – http://www8.hp.com/us/en/drivers.html

Toshiba – http://support.toshiba.com/drivers

Sony – http://esupport.sony.com/perl/select-system.pl?DIRECTOR=DRIVER

Lenovo – http://support.lenovo.com/us/en/products?tabName=Downloads

Select your system or type it in and find the latest driver for you wirless card. There is usually a section called Networking and underneath you should see a list of drivers. One of them should have the word “Wireless” in it. If you have more than one wireless driver, then you need to figure out which one you have installed on your computer.

wireless card driver

You can determine the model number for your wireless card by pressing the Windows key + the Pause button at the same time. This brings up the System Properties dialog. Another way to get to it is to right click on My Computer and select Properties. Once there, click on Advanced system settings.

advanced system settings

Click on the Hardware tab and then click on Device Manager.

device manager

You’ll see a list of devices with plus signs to the left of them. Click on the one called “Network Adapters” and there will be an entry for your wireless card as shown below:

device manager drivers

Now download that driver from the list off the manufacturers web site. Usually the wireless card is called something “Intel Pro Wirelss” or “Dell Wireless”, etc. Once you download the file to your desktop, double click on it and follow the steps to install. You might have to restart your computer.

If the driver on the computer was the problem, the dropped connections should go away completely. If not, then you might have to try updating the router firmware.

Update Router Firmware

Updating router firmware is a not so trivial task that varies depending on the router brand you happen to have. Almost none of them have an automatic update feature. Instead you have to download the latest firmware from their website, log into your router and then upload it up perform the update.

To get started, you need to figure out the IP address of your router and use that to log in via a browser. Read my post on finding the IP address for a wireless access point. Since the method to update the router firmware varies so much by brand, it’s best to search your router model number + “firmware update” to find specific instructions.

Router Settings

The last issue that can be causing dropped connections is various settings on your router. In recent times, you have dual-band routers which let you broadcast on both 2.4 and 5 GHz networks. These advanced routers normally work really well with the latest gadgets and computers, but on older machines, you can sometimes run into issues. Here’s a couple of things I would try:

1. Connect to the 2.4 GHz network if you’re currently connected to the 5 GHz one.

2. On the router, make sure the channel settings for the networks is set to Auto. If you have picked a particular channel for some reason, try a different channel.

3. Turn off extra security features like MAC address filtering, network isolation and Wi-Fi Protected Setup. None of these really increase security all that much and end up causing more trouble.

4. Make sure your wireless network mode is set to Mixed. Sometimes picking a higher mode can cause problems with older devices.

5. If you don’t know anything about your router settings, try resetting your router completely by pressing the reset button. Configure wireless security and leave it at that.

wireless settings

Hopefully one of these solutions will fix your wireless connection problem. If you have a different solution, please leave a comment and let us know. Enjoy!

Comments [133]

  1. Still having the same dropping problem, and using the latest driver for my usb wireless network adapter. Any other suggestions??

  2. Two more things to look for if you're still dropping connections. Most wireless routers broadcast at 2.4ghz. Make sure you don't have any other devices that broadcast at this same frequency lying around. 2.4ghz cordless phones, baby monitors, wireless alarm systems, etc. You'd be surprised how many wireless devices use the 2.4 ghz freq. I replaced my water sprinkler controller last week and the wireless module for it….you guessed it. 2.4ghz. Didn't buy it.

    Second thing to check is to make sure your encryption key is entered in EXACTLY correct. Seen lots of connections drop randomly because in the encryption key, a "c" was entered as a "C". Different values. Close but not close enough. BTW, you can't go by what is stamped on the outside of the router. You have to login to the router and put in the encryption key EXACTLY how it is inside the router.

    Lots of fun and games….

  3. I came across this article while having my toshiba laptop drop the connection every 10 min or so and woudnt re connect unless i restarted and this compleatly fixed my problem. I havent had a dropped connection in over a week. Thank you so much for addressing this problem, and giving such exact instructions and links to the web sites. Kudos to you!

  4. Hi, had lots of problem, my wifi connection out of the blue suddenly started to drop the connections almost instantly after i turned it on and guess what helped!? Just retyping the encryption key, it worked like magic , but i wonder how it got changed in the first place on it's own!

  5. Rick M: What in the -crap- are you talking about? If the encryption key isn't right, the computer won't connect at all. There is no such thing as a "partially correct" encryption key where the computer will be partially connected to the router. It's either right or wrong. Connected or not connected. So, to correct your statement, no, you 100% have never in your life seen a -single- wireless connection drop randomly because a "c" was entered as a "C", since it would make absolutely no sense if you had seen such a phenomenon.

    Stick with your first comment about getting rid of other 2.4ghz devices, which was correct/not completely retarded.

  6. I replaced the software and drivers on linksys router B. Replaced drivers on Wireless adapter in Asus laptop with windows 7 premium on it. and the problem is still there, signal drops in about every 10 seconds , have to completely reset adapter and sometimes the router also to get back wireless signal, this did not happen with my old xp home edition laptop ? could it be that windows 7 needs and newer router N type possibly ???

  7. Glenn,

    You don't need a N router. You can certainly buy one but unless the router you have is bad, this isn't likely to help. Lots of places you could have problems. Very first thing to try is take your laptop to Starbucks, Micky D or wherever and see if the problem occurs at those locations. If they do, you very likely have a problem with your pc/card/software, etc because the problem is occurring everywhere. But if you can connect at other locations other than your home, then you know your PC, NIC, software, are working ok (else it wouldn't connect anywhere) and you have a problem at your house. Once you isolate the problem, then it's much easier to fix. Let me know how that goes and we'll go from there.

  8. Pete,

    Regarding your comments, I stand by my remarks all day long. You can connect to the network with the wrong encryption key but you won't be able to authenticate.

    I won't spend a lot time debating this issue because I see it every day and there is absolutely no question about what I said being true.

    The two most common issues people have trying to connect wirelessly is the encryption type and key. The most common problems keeping them from connecting is the encryption key. People will use a zero instead of an "o" and/or they will use lower case letters when they should use capital letters or vice versea. Any of these conditions will cause a person to be able to connect, lose the connection, maybe reconnect again, etc and is guaranteed to drive you crazy.

    You MUST login to the router to see what the encryption key is and enter it EXACTLY as it is named in the profile in the router as I mentioned in my original post.

    If you do that, chances are you'll be fine. If you don't do that, you'll end up like lots of people. Lost, frustrated and upset.

    I work tech support all day every day and have fixed wireless connectivity issues like this for hundreds of people.

    Doesn't matter to me if you believe it or not. Hopefully this will help someone having that problem that is not such a jackass…..

  9. I want to ask about why my wireless router settings are gone. The sys and wlan led are not lite up. i just used the wireless for about half year++ but this problem had happen more than 3 times. Every time i need to send it to computer shop to solve the problem. can u teach me how to solve the problem by myself? thanks

  10. xiao pei,

    There is a be a bit of confusion in your post so I'll try to explain best I can based on what info you provided.

    Most wireless routers do not lose their settings unless you do a hard reset on the router. In other words, you can power it on/off all you like and the settings in the router should be fine. On most routers, the most common way for the settings to go away are if the router has a reset pin/button and it gets pushed by mistake. Usually these pin/buttons are recessed so you don't accidentally reset the router so someone would have to make a conscious effort to reset the router. If you do reset the router, it will almost always set the router back to the default out of the box settings. If this happens, typically you need to re-enter the network name and security key back in the router and you're good to go unless you are doing something fancy with it at home. And if that were the case, you likely wouldn't be here asking these questions.

    Most likely, your router setting haven't gone away unless you pressed that recessed reset button I mentioned earlier.

    The lights on the router sys and wlan tell you things about your router and the connection but they typically have nothing to do with your settings.

    I don't know which router you have but it's possible that sys stands for system and wlan stands for wireless lan but if you ask 10 people, you might get 12 answers. I am speaking in generalities since I don't know what model of router you have.

    If we go with the assumption that wlan is actually wireless lan and that light is not on, you typically won't be able to connect wirelessly with your PC.

    We need to verify service is on and router is working so probably the first thing to check is can you connect your PC to the router using an ethernet cable and connect to the internet? Try several websites. They should all work. If they all work, great. That means your internet service provider is providing you service, the cabling to the router and from the router to the PC is good and most of the time, if you can connect with a cable, you can connect wirelessly so your router is probably ok. Then it's just a matter of putting your network id and security on the PC.

    But if you can't connect with a cable, you can stop here. Every once in a great while, I'll see someone who can connect hardwired but not wirelessly but it doesn't happen too often.

    It is much more likely that your PC settings to connect wirelessly are where your problem actually is except the part about the wlan and sys lights being off on your router.

    If you are taking your PC to the shop and not taking the router, then you are almost certainly dealing with a PC issue since they are not doing anything to the router since it's not there for them to work on.

    So find out if you can connect with an Ethernet cable and let us know.

  11. My Netgear WNR2000 connection Drops on my laptop A LOT! Not a problem on my sisters laptop or my iPod Touch– Just my computer. However, I do have Windows 7. I tried to disable the windows firewall and still didn't really make a difference. And suggestions?

    -I Have an HP DV6 Artist Edition 2.

  12. Cabral,

    Yep, those connections that come and go will drive you crazy quick!

    Since other devices in your location all seem to work ok and you're only having problems with your notebook, that would seem to indicate the network and components, router, cabling, etc are all working ok.

    So that leaves us the HP notebook itself AND possible interference from other devices that are close to your notebook.

    I'm guessing when your connection drops, you have to reboot your PC to get it to reconnect or it may reconnect on its own.

    As always, troubleshooting is going to be a matter of eliminating things. As I mentioned earlier, since other devices are working ok, we can eliminate the network.

    The next thing I would do would be to take your notebook to Starbucks or another location that has wireless and see how your notebook acts. If you take your notebook to a different location and it all works fine, then you're likely dealing with something that is interfering with your wireless signal at your home or a possible encryption key problem. More on this in post #2 above.

    The reason I say Starbucks and not a buddys house is most likely, the network at Starbucks is not going to be a secure network. Most of the time, you can fire up your notebook at their location and it will automatically find their network and your PC will automatically connect to it because they have disabled the authentication (security) code needed.

    So lets say it works at Starbucks. Be sure and stay there long enough to make sure it works for a reasonable length of time. If it stays connected 15m without dropping the connection, then your PC is probably working correctly so the problem is going to be related to entering the name of your home network/security key at your location OR interference at your home which is also discussed in post #2 above.

    But what if it doesn't work at Starbucks either? I can think of only a handful of situations where it might not stay connected at Starbucks.

    1. You are running on battery power (instead of being plugged into AC current). The reason this can cause you a problem is that many portable PCs will start disabling things on the PC when the battery starts running low to extend the battery life. This is the default setting on most notebooks. You can change that setting but since most people don't know about this setting, they wouldn't know to look for it. So make sure your battery is charged up completely before you go. Course this problem will make your connection drop at home as well.

    2. The particular router they are running is not compatible with Windows 7. Most routers are compatible with Windows 7 but I know for sure some of the older dlink routers were NOT compatible. So if you continue to disconnect at Starbucks, ask someone working there if anyone else has ever complained about that that was using Win 7. Not very likely they would have one of these routers but you never know.

    3. Finally, there are a handful of network cards that MUST have the latest driver installed in order for them to work. You may have one of those. If you go to HPs website, you should be able to find the current version of drivers they offer and if what they have is newer than yours, I would recommend downloading/installing their drivers. If you feel comfortable doing this, great. If you don't, you can call HP or ask a buddy to help.

    Finally, it is possible but not very likely, that you are actually having a problem with the notebook itself. Very rarely do I see that but I have seen it. I would try everything else here first and if all else fails, contact HP. The link to check for drivers is listed above in the original post.

    Isolation and eliminating possible problems ONE at a time will lead you to the fix. If you do all that before you contact HP, it will help them help you once you tell them what you have done.

    Good luck!

  13. I have a linksys WRT54G wireless router. I have comcast internet with Voip from comcast as well. After a couple of years with no problems at all, I "upgraded" the firmware in an attempt to have more parental control. (Added 4 Ipod touches to the system) It was a nightmare. As soon as the firmware was installed, I started disconnecting from the modem. No internet, not even by hard wire. Reset everything… works for a while then disconnects. Re-installed the proper firmware from the linksys site… I go a day or two and bam… disconnection. Have to reset everything. What the heck? Do Ipod touches have a static IP address perhaps creating an IP conflict? What else could have gone wrong… Virus on the firmware? Any ideas… help. I've talked extensively to Comcast and Linksys. No help.

    Thanks, Larry

  14. Hey Larry,

    It sounds like all was well until the firmware update was done. As long as that is correct, pretty good chance something regarding the firmware update put you off in the ditch. And since you're having problems with all of your network devices, one thing they all have in common is the router and since the firmware on the router was recently changed….well, I would start there.

    Very first step I would take is to go back to the version of firmware you were running that was working fine for you. Most of the time, rolling back to the original firmware is not a problem but only Linksys could tell you for sure. Going back to your original firmware should get you back up and running pretty quickly.

    Couple of things about upgrading (or downgrading) firmware on routers. Always use a hard wire connection to do a firmware change. Don't try it with wireless. You may get lucky and get the update done wirelessly but don't bet on it. So if you did your firmware update wirelessly, that could be part of the trouble.

    Another thing to be wary of is the firmware update itself. Was the linksys router provided to you by Comcast? If so, be sure and get the firmware update from the COMCAST website. Not linksys. Reason being is that lots of times, a company like comcast will have special firmware made just for their network and if you upgrade the router firmware anywhere other than comcast, it may not work for you correctly. You need to get the firmware update from Comcast. Again, that's going on the assumption that comcast provided you with that router. If comcast installed your network and you bought the router at a Best Buy or something, then you should go to the linksys website to get the update. Otherwise, call comcast back and have them give you the link for the firmware for the router and go back to the previous version that was working fine for you.

    All of the ipod touches I've seen have been setup with dynamic (dhcp) ip addressing so as long as your router uses dhcp addressing, you shouldn't have an addressing conflict. Years ago, some of the cable companies used static ip addresses but we're talking 10-12 yrs ago. Most likely, comcast uses dhcp. Wouldn't hurt to ask when you call them.

    A virus on the firmware would be extremely unlikely. Anything is possible but that would be VERY low on my list of things to check on.

    You are always taking a chance when you update the firmware on any device. Most of the time, no problem. But over the years, if I had a piece of hardware that was working fine until I did a firmware update on it, I can't think of a single time that rolling back to the original version of the firmware didn't fix my problem. Just make sure you get it from the right source!

    Good luck!

  15. >There is no such thing as a “partially correct” encryption key where the computer will be partially connected to the router. It’s either right or wrong. Connected or not connected. So, to correct your statement, no, you 100% have never in your life seen a -single- wireless connection drop randomly because a “c” was entered as a “C”, since it would make absolutely no sense if you had seen such a phenomenon.

    Well, I agree 100%, this is just stupid and not how the world is supposed to work, but it worked nonetheless….

  16. Hi mate,

    I'm having a problem with my router, it's model # is DG834G v3. The third light, (which is an i with a sort of a nearly full circle at the bottom) which Netgear classifies as the internet light, starts flashing yellow sometimes, and that's where the trouble starts…

    Green Internet Light = 100 MBPS

    Yellow Internet Light = 10 MBPS

    The Local Area Connection, connects back instantly and then my Wireless Network Connection disconnects, and reconnects back at the same speed. It's really, really bugging me now, because it's happened quite a lot of times.

    I'd deeply appreciate it if you can solve my problem.

    My two network adapters that I have are..

    Accton EN1207D Series PCI Fast Ethernet Adapter: Version 1.33.709.2001

    NETGEAR WG111T 108Mbps Wireless USB 2.0 Adapter: Version 1.5.0.2102

    I'm kind of a beginner to these sorts of things, so I don't know where to actually get the updates from, and I couldn't see it on Dell's site. My computer is a Dell Dimension 8200.

    When you find the links to update these drivers, please tell me how to install it because I don't fully know how to do it in some cases.

    Thanks.

  17. Hey i have a netgear "N" router and it ties in with my phoneline is there any way i can change it so whenever someone calls or anyone makes phonecalls i wont disconnect?

  18. Hi Oliver,

    Don't have much info to go on so I will make my best guess. Most routers don't have a phone connection on them to plug in a phone. If you have dsl service at your house, your dsl may be connected to your router but that's not quite the same as phone service.

    Most of what I will be telling you I've already stated in previous posts so if what I say here doesn't make sense, try looking at the previous posts above.

    If you're on the internet at your house using a wireless network connection to connect to your portable PC, notebook or whatever, IF you have a cordless phone AND that cordless phone is a 2.4ghz phone, when your phone rings, it will likely knock you off your wireless network. That's because most of the Netgear routers I've seen all broadcast at 2.4ghz which is the same frequency as your phone. So when the phone rings, both your phone and your wireless router are fighting for the same frequency (2.4ghz) and there usually is only one winner.

    BUT if your phone is not cordless OR not 2.4ghz OR you actually do have a phone line plugged into your router, you may have a different problem.

    So first, check your cordless phone to see what frequency is uses. Most cordless phones will have the frequency on the phone or on the base unit itself. If it is a 2.4ghz, replacing the phone with a cordless phone that is NOT 2.4ghz will likely solve your problem. I like the newer DECT 6.0 phones. They have dropped in price and will give you good sound quality and won't interfere with your wireless network. They also work great with voip.

    If I have made bad assumptions, let me know what you have and that will make it a lot easier to get your problem resolved.

    In fact, for future posters, please do us a favor. Tell us what brand/model of router you have. Tell us if you have cable, DSL, FIOS or whatever. If you have a notebook problem, be sure and provide the brand/model of that as well. Most of the problems you'll see have already been covered in previous posts but if you look through the posts above and don't find an answer, post your problem along with a list of your equipment and we'll try to help you out.

  19. I have a netgear rangemax wireless router connected to a cable modem. It has worked fine for years. All of the sudden, it just started dropping the connections. The computer could see the connection, but when trying to reconnect, it would fail. If I unplugged and plugged the router back in, it would work for 5-10 minutes, and then drop again with the exact same problem. I would have to remove power and power back up the router. Are you familiar with this issue or how to solve it? It is happening on multiple devices (laptop, itouch, etc.)

    Thanks!

  20. George,

    Are you still having problems? Sorry, somehow I overlooked your post. Sorry about that.

    Anyway, let me know if you are still having a problem.

  21. Hi Jim L.

    Since it sounds like since you are having this problem with multiple devices, we can rule out the devices.

    That leaves us with the router/cable modem and your incoming internet connection.

    Caveat: have you purchased/changed/relocated ANY wireless devices in your home recently? Added a phone, etc? Moved a cordless phone into the room where your PC is? If you have, if the device you've added is a 2.4ghz device, it will interfere with your router and drop the connection on a pretty regular basis.

    Assuming nothing has changed, keep reading. If something has changed, read the previous posts here near the top of the page.

    Here's a question for you. Can you connect one of your PCs, devices, etc with an ethernet cable to the netgear? You can get an ethernet cable at walmart for less than $5. They are universal so it won't be a waste of money. If you can do that, do it and see if your connection still drops. If your connection stays connected, then you have just eliminated the incoming dsl signal and the dsl modem. Try that first.

    MOST of the time, your incoming internet connection gives very little problem but from time to time, I have see network connections that come and go and if this is the case, you'd have to get your ISP (comcast, timewarner or whomever) to fix this. Let's keep this in mind but it falls pretty low on the list of things to check.

    When you drop your connection, is there any change in lights on your router or the dsl modem? Start with the dsl modem first. When everything is working, certain lights will be lit up/blinking. Regardless of what type of dsl modem you have, it will almost certainly have a port labelled "LAN" and another labelled "WAN". Simply stated, the WAN light should be on steadily indicating you have dsl coming into the modem. The wan port is where you plug in your dsl cable coming from the outside to the modem. It may be called something else but bottom line, no light equals no signal. If that light disappears, that usually means you have lost signal to the dsl modem. Could be a bad modem or the ethernet cable or a connection back to where it comes into the house. If you find the wan light goes off, you'll need to focus on the wiring/incoming connection. Possible its the modem but that's a distant last thing I would check. The LAN port on your modem is likely connected directly to the netgear router via ethernet. If the LAN port on the dsl modem stops flashing when your connection stops, then you probably have a bad dsl modem.

    If the lights on the dsl modem don't change when your connection drop, then check out the netgear router. The netgear will probably have some type of activity light that flashes when things are working and it may quit flashing when the connection drops.

    Keep in mind the incoming dsl plugs into the dsl modem which in turn feeds the netgear router. So make sure you troubleshoot as I've described here else you might purchase something you don't need.

    So, in summary, check out the dsl modem wan light connection when the signal drops. If it stays lit, move on to the lan port (or whatever the port is labelled on your modem where the ethernet cable plugs in to connect your netgear). It is continues to flash, then move on to the netgear itself.

    Netgear products are pretty durable but anything can break.

    Good luck!

  22. I've tried all the solutions here, but my wireles network continually drops the connection. I have several devices connect to the router and am wondering if that is causing the problem (XBox, Blu-ray player, DVR, TV, and PC). Thanks.

  23. Hi Horace,

    To answer your question, having too many devices will not cause you to drop your hardwired/wireless connection.

    I don't have much information to go on but here are some things to consider….

    You say your connections drop. Are we talking hardwired, wireless or both? That's important to know. I haven't seen a TV or a DVR with a wireless connection (yet) so guessing those are hardwire connections. TVs typically don't connect directly to the router.

    Do any of your network devices ever connect long enough for you to use them? Or maybe they don't ever connect at all??

    In a typical home, the dvr and PC are connected to the router and if you logged into the router, you would see these devices on your network. The Bluray player usually does NOT connect to your network but rather is connected directly to your tv. Xbox is usually connected directly to your TV as well and may be on your network hardwired but there is also a wireless option available for the Xbox that you may or may not have. Again, there are exceptions to all of this but in 90% of all households, this is how its all connected.

    It's always a good idea to go back to the basics. Essentially, connect one device at a time and get it working before moving on to the next device. In this case, it's best to start with the PC. Regardless of whether it connects to the router hardwired or wireless, can you PC get on the internet? Once you get the PC working on a consistent basis, you can use it to help you with the rest of the devices.

    Once you get your PC on the internet consistently, you will need to login to your router. Don't know who your provider is but you'll probably open up a browser and put in an ip address and probably a password to get into the router. Once there, you'll need to look to see what devices it sees on your network. If your router doesn't see a device, you won't be able to get it to work. Once you router sees the device on the network, try it out and make sure it functions before moving on to the next device.

    If you're unsure how to login to your router, call your service provider tech support and they can walk you through it.

    Generally speaking, if NONE of your network devices connect at all, the problem is with the network, cabling, router, etc. However if even one device connects and stays connected and works properly, you know the network is working and it's a matter of working with the devices to get them connected/configured properly.

    Good luck!

  24. Hi, i've just recently started having problems with my wireless connection, it either won't connect or drops connection as soon as it does. Works fine with an ethernet cable plugged into laptop and router. Also works fine if i unsecure the network. After it has been left unsecured if i then go back into router homepage and put the passkey back on it will work fine up until i close my laptop down. My flat mate also has similar problems when he tries to connect wirelessly. Any ideas?

  25. Hey Marc,

    Because you are having the same problem with 2 different PCs, I think your PCs are likely fine and the problem is with the router itself. It is possible for 2 PCs to have the same problem, virus, etc but that's not the first thing that comes to mind.

    If you have recently replaced your router or changed the password in your existing router, this is the first place I'd look.

    I'm assuming you have a Windows based laptop. Whenever you connect to a network successfully, Windows stores the name of the network as well as the password for that network in the Windows operating system. In other words, it remembers every network you connect to successfully even the networks that are unsecured. The idea being that when all is working as it should, when you turn on your laptop at home or wherever, the laptop will see the network and it will go look in the list of networks that Windows keeps to see if the network and password is there. If it is and the password hasn't changed, the laptop automatically connects to the network using the password it used to connect with it in the past. Sounds good right? But there's a couple of catches….

    Windows will always use the stored network/password info that is stored in Windows FIRST to connect to the network so as long as your network name/password don't change, you're fine. But by default, every router has a unique name so if the router gets replaced, you'll need to setup the new router with a password, connect to it and Windows will keep this info for you. If the password gets changed, you can't connect because Windows recognizes the network and tries to use the password that is stored on your PC instead of the new password. When you unsecure your network and are able to connect to it successfully, that says your router, PC and wireless signal are working just fine. And when you go back in and add the password in the router, you are probably already connected to the router therefore the new password doesn't take effect until you try to connect a different PC OR power off the router or the PC that is already connected. At that point, the new password you put it comes into play.

    The easiest thing to do is to remove your network from the list of networks that Windows maintains. Just erase the entry. Once it erases, you will want to connect to your network using the password you have put in your router. Once it connects successfully, Windows will again store the network/password back on your PC and you're now back in business.

    How to remove the network from the list depends on what version of Windows you are running.

    I just did a quick Google search on the phrase "stored network passwords in xp" and you'll find what you need if you are running xp. If you are running Vista or Win7 or whatever, just substitute the operating system into that phrase I just mentioned and I'm sure you'll find the instructions for removing your network from the Windows list.

    Hope that helps.

  26. Hey Rick, i changed the authentication from WPA to WEP and this seems to have solved the problem i was having, cheers for the advice though, if i start experiencing problems again i will try erasing the network. Quick query is WEP authentication as secure as WPA?

  27. Hey Marc,

    Glad to hear things are working again for you.

    Actually, WPA is more secure than WEP. WEP is commonly used because it is fairly straightforward to configure and on some network devices, WPA is more difficult to configure. The thinking was that if it was easy to configure, then people would be more likely to use it. WEP is pretty easy to setup on most devices so you'll find it everywhere.

    Keep in mind that all wireless networks are much less secure than a hardwired network regardless of what type of security is used.

    Technology has advanced some in wireless network security but there's plenty of room for improvement!

    Think of wireless security as you would a lock on your front door. It keeps the honest man out but if someone wants in badly enough, a locked door is not going to stop them. Same goes for your wireless PC connection.

    Hope everything continues to work well for you.

  28. Hi I did everything you said to do but my router keeps disconnecting from the modem and it's doing it a whole lot more now… It's a cable modem from comcast all of the lights are fine and it's working properly… Our router is a belkin n150 (F6D4230-4) first we had the router hooked up to our laptop on the right wall in our living room in our apartment then a friend of mine gave us their old desktop computer and we moved our tv router and modem to the other side of room and hooked modem and router up to desktop and it has been losing connection ever since then (when it was hooked up to the laptop it lost connection maybe once or twice a day) not a big deal now hooked up to desktop lost connection what seemed to be a lot but now it's doing it like every 5 minutes. Any suggestions thanks for your help

  29. Hi Jessica,

    I don't think I've answered you personally but your wireless connection dropping is why we're here.

    As usual, we will have a defined process to follow. The goal is to isolate the problem so that we know for sure what is causing the problem to occur.

    Sounds like you have a laptop and an older desktop both of which have wireless capability. The very first thing to do is find out if the laptop can connect AND stay connected to a network outside of your home.

    I typically use starbucks as an example just cause I like to go there but you need to take your laptop to a different location to see if it will connect to that network AND stay connected without dropping. Ideally, that would be a friend/relatives house where you would need a security code to connect to their network. If that sounds like too much trouble, then you can do the Starbucks thing or wherever there is a wireless connection in your neighborhood. Most of these connections will be unsecured so you won't have to use a code to connect but at least we can see if you can connect AND stay connected to their network. If so, then pretty good chance your PC is fine. BUT if you drop your connection at a network outside your home, then it's time to take a hard look at the laptop/wireless card.

    Assuming it stays connected outside your home, when you fire it up at your house, does it automatically connect to your network or do you have to put in a code? It should automatically connect IF you have successfully connected in the past with this same laptop. If you're prompted to put in a code and then it works or works erratically, then we have a problem with the PC or router configuration.

    Regarding the desktop, since it is an older machine, that always makes it suspect. Old machines often have older wireless devices with old wireless drivers, etc, etc so that may be your problem. If you check with the person who you got the PC from and they tell you they bought the wireless card/adapter 4yrs ago, there's a pretty good chance there are some newer drivers on the vendors website and downloading and installing those drivers would be the very first step I'd take.

    On your desktop, very few, if any, come with built in wireless in years past so if has wireless connectivity, it has been added since it was new. That's fine but we need to know what type of wireless network card it has. If it has an antenna on the back of the PC, chances are it has an internal network card. If you have a usb device plugged into to a usb port on the PC, then you have a usb wireless adapter. Either one will work BUT the internal card tends to give people more trouble just because desktop PCs are typically located under a desk up or against a wall or both! Even if they are top of the desk, they often back up to a wall or hutch or something and this can partially or in some cases, completely block the wireless signal. This can cause your signal to drop at random.

    Personally, I like the usb wireless adapters that come with an extender cable. You plug the cable into any of your usb ports and then plug the other end of the cable into the usb adapter. Without having a cable, your wireless card location is restricted to the location of the usb ports on the PC. But if you have a cable plugged into the usb port and the other end plugged into the wireless usb adapter, then you can set the wireless adapter on top of your monitor or a shelf or even just on your desktop. Main thing is that it needs to be out in the open so the signal can come in. Ideally, you would have nothing surrounding it. Just put it up as high as you can and stay away from any obstruction for your best signal.

    I know it may be difficult to do but follow these steps in order without skipping any. Once you determine what the problem is, then you'll know how to proceed. If you find a problem and I haven't mentioned it, feel free to let us know.

    Best of luck!

  30. hi im glad i found this page. i didnt try to post my problem right away because i have been reading all the solutions here and kept trying them one by one trying to eliminate my dropped connection problem. i even put away my cordless phone and am using the traditional phone.

    well one thing i have noticed about my dropped connection (and this had been consistent for the last few weeks now) was when my niece would connect to the internet using her MAC notebook. she uses her mac for 5 hours every single day.. and within those 5 hours my connection keeps dropping and had to reset my wireless connection everytime. as soon as she shuts down her mac notebook…. everything is a breeze once again.

    i use windows xp by the way. i have tried all your solutions here but none worked. i even changed the channel thinking that being on the same channel is causing the conflict but still didnt work.

    do you have an answer to this? why my windows laptop is conflicting with my niece's mac notebook?

  31. Hi I am really glad I found this. I've read through all of the problems and don't see mine at all. I had a Netgear WPN824V2 Router that my son gave me and connected for me. It worked fine but then it burned out. I bought another one and it will only work as long as the router is plugged into my laptop. As soon as I unplug it, I get page cannot be displayed.

    I thought maybe my wireless mouse might be interfering with the signal and I unplugged everything from my USB ports and the router did work for a couple of minutes without being plugged in. As soon as I put everything back, it stopped working. I've tried everything I can think of to get this to work. My son has also come over and tried to get it to work, nada.

    I'm running Vista and I have comcast cable (coax). Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

  32. Hey Tim,

    The first thing that comes to mind when in this situation is that your PC and your niece's Mac are trying to share the same ip address and that won't work.

    First a bit of info about ip addresses.

    ALL network devices whether they are a laptop, Iphones, network printer, etc must have a unique ip address on the network so the router knows how to route traffic in and out of the network to the correct device. PC, Macs, Linux, ALL network devices have to have their own address so they can talk to the network.

    Think of the router as a post office that delivers your mail at home. The post office is able to deliver mail to you because they know your address. If the guy across the street from you had the same address as you do, you can see how that would be confusing to the post office. They wouldn't know where to deliver the mail.

    In the network world, there are two different types of addresses. One is called static and the other is called dynamic. Years ago, it was common to have a static ip address. In other words, every network device on your network at your house had to have its own unique address that never changed so the router (mailman) would not get confused. However to create this static ip address on your device was tricky, every device was different and unless you worked in the network industry, it was very confusing to the typical consumer. Once configured properly, it all worked fine but every time a new device was added, the customer had to configure it for a new ip address. And if the customer had 2 or 3 network devices already, he would probably have to keep a spreadsheet to track what the address was of each device because no two devices can share the same address. Not the most ideal situation for most people.

    The other type of address is dynamic meaning that the address on a network device can change and usually does BUT the router is assigning you the address AND the router keeps track of it of what address it assigned to what device so this is much simpler. You don't need to put in an address and you probably don't even care what address you have as long your PC works so it's a much better system than we used to have. Hopefully that makes sense.

    I personally don't know who provides your internet service to you and I also don't know if you have to setup static or dynamic addressing so we'll have to guess a little here. If you have had internet service with the same company for a long time, say 8-10yrs, then it's possible you have static ip addressing but the only way to know for sure is to check with your provider and ask them. Verizon FIOS uses dynamic for residential customers and business customers can have either dynamic or static.

    If however you have gotten service in the last 3-4 yrs, my guess would be that you are using dynamic addressing. Can't be sure but that would be my first thought. Since your machine works and has been working probably even before your niece showed up, my thought would be that your PC is properly configured for your network and she is probably using a static ip address that is on her Mac. The reason this is causing you a problem is you are both trying to use the same address.

    Let's say her Mac has an address on it set up as 192.168.1.2 That would probably be fine on your network. BUT because your router thinks it is handing out addresses to everyone because it the router is configured for dynamic addressing, it can't do anything with her MAC address. Her Mac connects and works because the address in her Mac just happens to be a legit address but the router doesn't know the Mac exists. So when it sees your PC power on, it says "Good morning, good to see you, I'm assigning you your address and it is 192.168,1.2 If I see anything for you, I'll send it your way." Normally this would be fine but if the Mac is already using that address, then you can't use that address. But the router doesn't know about the Mac because if it did, it would not give you an address already in use. It would assign you another one. Hope this makes sense. Two devices can not share the same address. Things don't work too well when that occurs.

    In summary, I suspect both systems are using the same address which is why you are having problems.

    So, here's what to do. Find out from your service provider if you are static or dynamic and then the settings on the Mac need to be changed to match. If your system was working fine before she came along, you don't need to do anything to your PC. The changes most likely need to be made on her Mac and if she is not familiar with how to do it, I'm sure you can google it or call your tech support for help. It's easy to do once you've done it once but kinda hard to explain in words.

    Once you get both machines properly configured, they will all co-exist just fine.

    Good luck!

  33. Alright. Here's my problem. I have a compaq CQ5300Y PC. My phone jack runs to an external dsl modem which then leads to a linksys wireless-g broadband router and then to the computer. We have 3 other computers that use the network both PC and MAC. There is no problem when these 3 computers are using the wireless network. For some reason, however; when the computer attached to the router is being used the internet stops every 15 minutes. I have yet to have a problem until the Compaq is on the internet.

    I updated my driver, even though it should have been current since the compaq is only 2 weeks old. Any help would be great. My mom is about to shot the computer and I'm trying my hardest to solve the problem. We event asked best buy and they found no problem.

  34. Hey Cindy,

    Sorry, I missed your post yesterday.

    This looks like a pretty nice router. It sounds as though when you plug in hardwired to your laptop (using a cable from your router to your laptop), the laptop works fine. But if you disconnect the cable from your laptop, then you are unable to connect wirelessly. That's what I got from your post so working on that assumption, you would need to setup your laptop to work wirelessly with your new router.

    I went to the Netgear website and found a page that steps you through the process of setting up your router for wireless use. Check out this page….

    http://kb.netgear.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/119

    Just copy and paste that into your browser.

    You may have already gone through this process with your son and if you have and you still can't connect wirelessly, let me make this suggestion:

    MAKE SURE THE WIRELESS ON YOUR LAPTOP IS ENABLED AND YOU ARE NOT RUNNING ON BATTERY POWER.

    That last statement is pretty important. Here's why…..

    In the last 4 years or so, nearly every laptop made comes with wireless that can be TURNED ON and TURNED OFF on the laptop itself. If your laptop wireless is turned off, it won't matter what you do, you will not get connected.

    So make sure you check that out FIRST before you do anything else. The next question is almost always "how do I turn my wireless on and off" on my laptop. If you know how to do it on your laptop, great. If not, if you still have your owners manual, look in there and it will tell you. If you are like a lot of people, your best bet will be to google it. Just go to google and type in "how do I turn on my wireless on my xxxxx notebook where xxx is the brand/model you have. If you don't know for sure what model you have, look on the laptop for a label. Sometimes it's on the bottom. You'll probably get lots of pages telling you how to turn on/off the wireless on your laptop. Sometimes people will tell me they know that's not the problem because it was just working this morning. Or yesterday. What happens sometimes is that when you put your notebook into a case or it gets bumped around a little in the car, sometimes the wireless has a button or switch on the laptop that gets turned off and then your wireless won't work.

    In summary, make sure your notebook wireless is turned on FIRST and then go to the link I gave you to step through the process of setting up your notebook for wireless.

    Let us know if you can't get it to work but I bet you can.

    Good luck!

  35. Hey Rick thank you so much. I did get it figured out by calling Netgear support and whining…lol. One little but very important step that their site doesn't tell you and if you haven't had to do it in a long time is once you get everything set up, you have to go to start, connect to and connect to the network you set up. Simple! But I haven't had to set up my network for a really long time because the comcast setup disk did that part for me…so I totally forgot about that from back in my help desk days. Total blonde moment! Once I reset the router and re-did everything it worked just fine. This forum is a great help though to eliminate the other issues I could have been having. Thanks!

  36. Cindy, glad to hear you got it all working.

    Nothing succeeds like success!

    Take care.

  37. Hey JB,

    Ok, I don't have much info to go on but I'll make some best guesses.

    Your new compaq is a desktop PC. Most desktop PCs do NOT come with wireless connectivity. You CAN add wireless to a desktop PC but right out of the box, most desktops don't have a way to connect wirelessly. So for the moment, I am going to assume you are trying to connect the Compaq hardwired using an ethernet cable plugged into the ethernet port on the PC and the other end of the cable connects to your linksys router since you didn't mention getting a wireless adapter for your compaq.

    If you are trying to connect wirelessly on your Compaq, post back with the model of wireless device you are using and we'll go another direction.

    You say that there is no problem using any of your 3 existing devices wirelessly on your network which means your network is working fine, the wireless signal is good and your other devices are properly configured so there's nothing we need to do there so we'll need to focus on your compaq and its configuration.

    I've read your email several times but a couple of the statements are confusing. You say that

    "For some reason, however; when the computer attached to the router is being used the internet stops every 15 minutes. I have yet to have a problem until the Compaq is on the internet".

    This could be interpreted lots of ways. My best guess is that what you really mean is that because you don't have a wireless connection on your Compaq, you are plugging in an ethernet cable between the Compaq and the Linksys router and when you do that, a problem occurs. Don't know if the problem is occurring on the Compaq or if its affecting the rest of the systems too or ???

    This could be a very long discussion but let's try to shorten it up a bit. Try this….

    First, power off the router. It likely has a power switch on it somewhere so flip the switch to turn it off. Leave it off for at least 20 seconds. While you have it off, make sure ALL of the other PCs/Macs,etc at your house are ALSO turned off. COMPLETELY TURNED OFF. Once you have verified everything is off, turn the linksys router back on. THEN TURN ON YOUR COMPAQ SYSTEM ONLY. See if it will connect to the internet AND stay connected for at least 30m. Make sure that no other computers are in use at this time. Be sure and check several websites, email, etc. We just want to see if it works properly if it is the only device connected.

    There are basically two different scenarios. One, it still won't connect to the web or two, it will work fine.

    If your compaq still won't connect to the internet, the problem is no doubt your PC or its configuration. Now that you know that, you'll want to contact the tech support of your internet service provider and tell them you can't connect hardwired and they'll help you get your PC configured properly. Once you have it working properly on the network, then you should be able to power back up the other network devices and they should all work just like they did before.

    If your compaq now DOES connect to the internet and the connection works for at least 30 minutes and all seems well, here's what the problem likely is….

    The compaq has a conflicting IP address with one of the other network devices at your house. The easy way to determine this is if you are connected with your compaq and all is well, try turning on all the other PCs/Macs you have. Give them a few minutes to come up and see if you lose your internet connection or maybe one of the other systems won't be able to connect. Either way, if this occurs, your compaq still needs to be reconfigured properly and the tech support guys will know what to do to correct the problem if you do exactly what I suggest here and give them the outcome.

    If after you speak with them you still have problems, let me know but I bet once you speak with them and the PC is configured properly, you'll be off to the races.

    Good luck!

  38. Hi Rick.

    For years I had similar problems to those being discussed here. Internet access dying for all devices. The wireless link to the router held up, but the route through to the internet died. The only fix was a router reboot.

    This happened over 3 different ISPs, and 5 different wireless routers (a couple of Netgears, Belkin, a couple of LinkSys').

    Each of the various combinations involved loads of time troubleshooting, on the phone to ISP & router tech supports, sending emails to & fro.

    Loads of firmware updates, driver updates…

    You name it – I did it. Nothing worked.

    In the end I had the idea that maybe all-in-one modem, router, access point devices suffered from the same flaw & that I needed to break things up a bit.

    Now this may be a completely mad theory – but hey, it fits the evidence…

    So I bought myself an old LinkSys AG241 modem/router & a couple of Edimax wireless access points.

    I fixed the access points at either end of the house (one near the router), and wired them to the router.

    I have never, ever, had to reboot either the router or the APs due to loss of connection.

    The wireless part of the system uses the same frequency so I don't think it was interference causing the problems.

    Go figure…

  39. Hey Paul,

    Thanks for sharing.

    With all those problems with different ISPs, hardware, etc, I would think the problem would have been with your internal wiring from the connection outside or in the basement or wherever it comes into your house to the data jack on the wall where you connect your router.

    I'm glad to hear you found a combination of network components that work for you but if they ever stop working for you, think about replacing the cable I mentioned and maybe the data jack too.

    I've personally had that problem and replacing the cable fixed it once and for all.

    Best of luck to you!

  40. Hi,

    Since last week, I have been having problems with my overall internet connection. Both my laptop (wireless connection) and my desktop (wired connection) can't access the Internet anymore, though my connection to our router is still existant. I am using a Lynksys WRT54G router for over a year and this problem has never occurred.

    At the same time, I have started using a new torrent software on my laptop. It seems that everytime the software is active, the connection gets dropped for the entire network. I have mapped the port for this software.

    Could this type of software be the cause of the Internet crashes or are they unrelated?

    Thank you!

  41. Hey Rick,

    Great name!

    I'm not much for coincidences so if your network connectivity issues started after you installed your new torrent software, I think that would be an excellent place to start.

    ANYTIME you install/upgrade new software or connect new hardware to your PC and something stops working that was working fine before the install typically leads me to uninstall the software that was downloaded/installed or disconnect the hardware that was just installed. If all works fine again, then you can be pretty certain that your new "toy" is causing a compatibility or systems requirement issue that has to be addressed.

    A quick way to accomplish this is to do a system restore.

    If you are running Vista, just go to Google and type in Vista system restore. FYI, you don't need to buy anything and you don't need to download anything.

    Once you find a website that steps you through the process, go through the steps and see what your choices are.

    If system restore is enabled and if you have a few choices to pick from, you want to pick the restore that has the date/time stamp of just BEFORE you downloaded the torrent software. Windows will then put your PC back like it was before you installed the Torrent software. It won't affect your data files, word docs, etc. It will put your system files which includes any software installs/updates you did back to how they were before you installed the torrent software.

    If after doing your system restore your network connectivity problem disappears, give it a couple of days to be sure and then before you install/download ANY software, go in and do a manual system backup. That way if it all goes off in the ditch after you do your install, you can get back to a working system by just going back to the system restore backup you made.

    If your system restore was not configured properly or you don't have a restore point with a good date/time, then you'll need to undo everything you did when you installed the Torrent software. ALL changes. Your goal is to get your PC back the way it was before the Torrent software was installed. Sometimes easier said than done….

    Good luck!

    Some torrent software will work with few changes to the firewall or the router itself. Other products will work but speed can be improved through firewall/router settings.As with most situations, there are a couple of ways you can go

  42. Hi there,

    I think my problem is pretty similar to everyone elses. I owned a linksys router that would disconnect ever few days and I would have to reboot the router and Clearwire modem evertime to get the connection back. I thought my router was bad so bought the new upgraded linksys. It did the same thing (with my Sony laptop). I recently purchased a Macbook and it is having the same problem. So its not a bad router and its not the computer so what should I do? I read somethign about an encryption code? How do I do that with my Macbook? Its disconnected every few hours and I'm about to pull out my hair!!

  43. Hey Ciera,

    Yep, these problems can drive a person crazy pretty quick and it can be SO frustrating especially if you're trying to get some work done.

    I am going to assume you had a good working wireless network at one time. If not, stop now and call your internet service provider.

    http://va.zensupport.co.uk/ is a decent site for your Macbook. They probably won't have your exact operating system but choose the 10.4 emulator they have but before you do anything with the Mac, let's work on the Sony because it sounds like the Sony worked at one time and since the Mac is new, it likely has not worked.

    The encryption code is your security code that allows you to connect to your wireless network and keeps outsiders off your network. You don't have to use encryption at all but I highly recommend you do. As I have stated in previous posts, using encryption is similar to locking your front door. It will keep many people out of your house but if someone wants in bad enough, I'm afraid it will take more than a locked front door to keep them out.

    Be sure and read post #25 above. Start in paragraph 2. Since you have recently changed routers, that article is talking to YOU.

    Your post states you went from getting disconnected every few days down to every few hours. While I understand the end result for you is the same, troubleshooting a problem where you are getting disconnected every few hours is different than getting disconnect every few days. So for the moment, we'll go with your current situation of getting disconnected every few hours.

    One more thing. I noticed that you said you bought a new Macbook and it is having the same problem. However, the last couple of sentences lead me to believe you have not setup your Macbook for wireless connectivity because you are asking about the encryption key. So since I'm not quite sure what the situation is with the Mac, let's start with the Sony notebook that used to work (I hope!).

    As usual, we want to test each item and isolate until we determine where the problem actually is. So if I were you, I would take my Sony notebook to Starbucks, Mcdonalds or wherever a public network exists. You want to make SURE that you can connect to their wireless network AND stay connected for a reasonable amount of time. Typically, if you can stay connected for 30 minutes and have gone to several websites, checked email, etc and haven't lost the connection, then your notebook is probably fine. If the connection drops at Starbucks, then you have a problem with your laptop.

    Assuming all went well at Starbucks, it's always nice to go to a friends house that has wireless to see if you can connect to their network. They'll have to tell you the name of their network and what the encrpytion key is they are using. It IS important they be using an encryption key. If they are not using one, time to move on to another buddy's house that is using one. Once you get on their network, you'll do the same thing as you did at Starbucks. You'll want to connect, browse some sites, email, whatever you typically do and see if you stay connected. If you do stay connected and don't lose the connection, that would mean your laptop is working fine on your friends network so we can eliminate the laptop as a problem. But again, if the connection drops, then you have a problem with your laptop.

    So you've been to Starbucks and your buddy's house and all has worked fine. If that is the case, then you have two areas to be concerned with. One is your internet service providers network and two, your environment.

    Look at the top of this page at post #2 and you'll see in the first paragraph some of the things to be on the lookout for that will cause your wireless to drop randomly. Bottom line, you likely have a 2.4ghz router and if you have any other devices that use that frequency, they need to go if you want to solve your problem.

    If after checking your home, you don't find any interfering devices, then we're pretty much down to the network connection itself. It does not happen often but it could be that a problem exists in your home that is usually a bad connection, defective cable, etc.

    If you do everything mentioned above and your network still drops its connection every few hours, it's time to call your internet company to see if they can test the line for you to see if a problem exists.

    Once you get your laptop where it will stay connected without dropping, THEN work on getting your Macbook on the network.

    Good luck!

  44. I'm looking for a solution for a wireless connection issue. A small company is using Wireless (approx 12 people at most). They have Adtran router from a T1. A Linksys router WRT54G2 was attached to the network for their wireless connection. All seemed to work fine.(the wireless router was in the server room w/closed door)A few months later dropped connections.

    A Linksys AP was added into the main area. After a short period, still getting dropped connections. (Note: I was called in to review issue.) I noticed that the Linksys router was using a different SSID than the Linksys AP. Both showed strong signals. This forced users to try to connect to one device or the other. As I tried to connect to the Linksys wireless router, I couldn’t. I found out the Linksys router had a different subnet. I still would have thought I could connect because I changed my IP to static for that range. Since I couldn’t connect I thought device was bad and I removed it from network. The Linksys AP should be able to handle the work load and I informed the staff to only connect to the Linksys AP SSID.

    I have a user less than 10 feet in front of AP lose connection to the network. I had another laptop user less than 25 ft lose connection. I then moved the laptop in front of device and no connection. In both cases the signal strength showed excellent. The laptop user could close lid for about 30 seconds and reopen lid and log back onto Laptop and would be connected, or reboot system. This may happen a few times during the day. One time when he lost connection I did an ipconfig/release and then a ipconfig/renew and I wasn’t able to get his IP renewed.

    I then changed his IP setting to static and got connected. He then lost connection again. I took it in front of AP again, showing strong signal, but wouldn’t connect. I then connected his laptop directly to a switch and couldn’t get his hardwire NIC to get a signal. I used same cable and port on my laptop and connected ok. I thought later that being unplugged may have shut down his hardwire NIC, even though he was plugged in all day and showed plenty of battery life. I did think it might be some other network issue or policy, but I couldn’t find anything yet.

    Some to the computers are laptops and some are desktops using USB wireless NICs. (There are about 4 other wireless signals in the building area, they are secure networks) I didn’t see any of the computers that lose connection have any attempt to connect to these other wireless networks. Our AP is in mixed mode with a unique SSID on channel 6.2.437 using WPA w/TRIP encryption & key renewal 300 sec. I hope someone can see if there is an obvious solution or lead me down the right path. If you need addition information, please let me know.

  45. Hi Bob,

    Apologize in the delay getting back to you. Just purchased a new Droid and have been getting it setup with email and all so I've been a bit occupied with that.

    I have lots of questions but let me make some general comments to get you started in the right direction. As usual, we need to isolate the problem so that we know where (and where NOT to) look.

    If your notebook connects hardwired and doesn't lose its connection, that's a good start. The next step would be to see if you can connect wirelessly with your notebook. I don't know if your network is configured for static or dhcp and I also don't know if your PC is configured for static or dhcp and if you're not sure, this is the first thing you need to determine. Will save you lots of time. You have to be careful about changing a dhcp address to a static address on a PC because if it works, then you may think you have the problem fixed….. and maybe you do, but don't bet on it.

    Once you know how your network is configured, be sure and configure your PC the same way. Test it again to make sure you can connect hardwired. If all goes well there, then its time to switch to wireless mode. If all goes well there and you don't lose a connection, then we know the network itself is working fine and your PC is working find. I don't know how familiar you are with wireless networks but if you can't connect wirelessly on your PC, remove the encryption from the AP/router. In other words, open it up so no security is needed. We don't want to leave it that long term but this helps determine what the problem is. For instance, if you can connect wireless using the encryption, then we know the network is fine and your PC is find and we just need to configure the rest of the PCs like yours (static or dhcp). But if you can't connect wirelessly using security BUT can connect wirelessly with NO security, then we know the wireless network works and your wireless card works but the encryption being used is not properly configured on the network, your PC or both. Again, we are isolating the problem. Your goal is to get your PC working on the network FIRST before you do anything with their PCs. Your PC should connect and stay connected and not drop the wireless connection. Once you feel your PC will work hardwired or wireless, then its time to take one of the other PCs, configure it for dhcp or static, (just like you did on your PC) and test it both hardwired and wireless just like you did yours. Then repeat the process.

    You mentioned several times you felt the wireless signal was strong so you probably don't have any devices that are interfering with the wireless signal but always ask if any new equipment has been installed lately.

    A bit of a shortcut is to verify the PCs work hardwired. If they work hardwired, I'd look at the wireless security hard.

    FIY, Windows tries to manage going back and forth between hardwired and wireless networks and usually does a decent job but it can also throw you a curve ball. Do yourself a favor and reboot or power off/on the PC you are going to be working on before you start.

    One last thing. Expecting to get a good, reliable wireless signal through a closed door is a bit optimistic. I understand security and all but depending upon the environment, ideally, the router would be hardwired to an wireless access point OUTSIDE of the room with the closed door so the wireless signal will be more consistent.

    Best of luck to you!

  46. Hi Rick, Thanks for responding.

    I hope this answers your questions and can help…

    My PC is set to auto connect to this wireless network and to use DHCP.

    The user’s laptop was configured DHCP and I changed it to static for testing. The following day he hadn’t had a connection issue. I will contact the user again to see how it’s been going for the last couple of days.

    My PC, while I was there, didn’t have a connection issue. I was only there for a short time.

    All the users can connect to the wireless AP. Their connection seems to drop, sometimes after a short time or even a day or two. I can verify yet if this happens to everyone, but a least most. At most times still shows good to excellent connection after losing network connection. One user lost their connection while I was there so I did an ipconfig/all on that user’s laptop and still shows their IP information. I did a ipconfig/release. The IP released ok. I then did a ipconfig/renew, but was unable to get an IP address. I rebooted the users’ laptop and connected to the network automatically. When he has lost connection he has just closed lid to go into standby mode for about 30 seconds or so and once logged back in, connected to network ok.

    There are no available ports in office area for hardwire connections. I have to bring laptop to server room and connect directly to switch.

    The only interference might be from the other secure wireless networks around the office building. I can see their SSID’s throughout this office. I was assigned this office a few months ago and not much documentation on when things were added. I did make a Visio of the network.

    Are there tools I can use to determine if any of the other wireless networks are interfering? If so, what are they?

  47. Hi Rick, Thanks for responding.

    I hope this answers your questions and can help…

    My PC is set to auto connect to this wireless network and to use DHCP.

    Ok, so your PC is configured for DHCP, is using encryption? and is able to connect wirelessly? Assuming all this is true, you need to leave your PC connected wirelessly for a few hours to see if your connection drops. If it does not drop after several hours of being connected, I would say your network is functioning as it should and your notebook is working correctly. However if it drops its connection, then you likely have a problem with the network itself unless of course your wireless connection has a habit of dropping at other locations as well. If you take your PC to Starbucks, does it stay connected? If it stays connected at even one location, your PC is working fine. So if it works at Starbucks but drops the connection at the location you are having problems with, then you know the problem is not your PC but the network or the network environment. I am assuming of course, your test environment (Starbucks) is DHCP as well as your location you are having a problem with.

    The user’s laptop was configured DHCP and I changed it to static for testing.

    I understand the thinking here but really and truly, this is no proof the system will continue to work for you over the long haul. If you are using dhcp on your router, you need to configure your PC for dhcp as well even if the static ip address is somewhat working at the moment.

    The following day he hadn’t had a connection issue. I will contact the user again to see how it’s been going for the last couple of days.

    My PC, while I was there, didn’t have a connection issue. I was only there for a short time.

    All the users can connect to the wireless AP. Their connection seems to drop, sometimes after a short time or even a day or two. I can verify yet if this happens to everyone, but a least most.

    Erroneous information or lack of information can really extend the time it takes to resolve issues such as these. Again, I would not move on to the customers PC until I knew FOR SURE that your PC will connect AND stay connected wirelessly for a reasonable amount of time (several hours at a minimum) at the company location. You need to simulate your customers environment best that you can. If you knowa notebook user that is dropping connections, put your notebook beside theirs. Does your connection drop when theirs drops? Or does your stay connected. Or is it random or ?? The answer to these questions will help you determine where the problem IS and ISN’T.

    At most times still shows good to excellent connection after losing network connection. One user lost their connection while I was there so I did an ipconfig/all on that user’s laptop and still shows their IP information. I did a ipconfig/release. The IP released ok. I then did a ipconfig/renew, but was unable to get an IP address. I rebooted the users’ laptop and connected to the network automatically. When he has lost connection he has just closed lid to go into standby mode for about 30 seconds or so and once logged back in, connected to network ok.

    What Operating System are the PCs running? You mentioned that you disconnected the router and was now using the access point only and the router and access point had different security keys. Did you remove the network profile from each PC so that ONLY the security key that you want them to use is listed in Windows? You said you removed the router but wasn’t sure exactly what that meant. Is it powered off completely or ?

    There are no available ports in office area for hardwire connections. I have to bring laptop to server room and connect directly to switch.

    The only interference might be from the other secure wireless networks around the office building. I can see their SSID’s throughout this office. I was assigned this office a few months ago and not much documentation on when things were added. I did make a Visio of the network.

    Are there tools I can use to determine if any of the other wireless networks are interfering? If so, what are they?

    Normally, having multiple wireless networks at location is not a problem BUT it can be a problem if these other networks are listed on the PCs in the network list. That’s why I suggest checking there to make sure the only ssid you see is the one you WANT them to see. If the one you want them to see is not available, then they will try to authenticate to other networks but hopefully that doesn’t happen too often.

    Operating Systems also give wireless problems as well but until other things are eliminated, it would be best to leave that for last.

    Isolation is your friend! Eliminate as many variables as you can. Once you find a situation that works, then duplicate that on the next PC. It sounds as though there is a network issue unless all of the PCs somehow got the same virus/malware on them which is unlikely but not impossible.

    I suggest you start with your PC first and go from there.

  48. Hi Rick M,

    I have had my laptop connected to several types of wireless networks, sometimes for a short time sometimes for hours. I understand that I may not have been online at this location long enough to possibility experience the same issue on my laptop. I think this bit of information could help.

    I really don’t think that setting a static IP will help; it’s just a step I thought I needed to try.

    Most systems are running Windows XP Pro, So is my system. I also have Win7 as a dual boot.

    The Linksys router WRT54G2 that was use before for wireless access was using the same WAP access code as the WAP54G AP still being used, but did have a different SSID. I disconnected the router completely from the network almost 3 months. The profile of the router doesn’t show on their system, either in Windows or if they are using the wireless NIC utility. The users do always see the wireless network for the organization. How can I control what wireless network users can see? I’m pretty sure no one is trying to connect to other wireless networks on purpose. The other networks say they are secure, so I would guess a user would need to know the encryption code to connect.

    I will try to do further testing as suggested.

    Thanks again.

  49. Hi mate your guide was helpful but is not quite what i need for my problem, i hope you can offer some advice.

    My wireless router/modem is an optus netgear router. Every 10mins to an hour i am forced to reset it as it loses its connection to the internet. Reseting it means it will work fine again for a little while, but as you can imagine this is extremely frustrating! Optus tech support were no help as they tell me to reset it and then it works so they say there is no problem! argh..

    i hope you can help.

    Thankyou, Daniel.

  50. Hey Daniel,

    Yep, don't you just love it when you're told to reset everything and then it comes up and "problem solved"….until 10 minutes later.

    Sometimes that is a valid solution but when it occurs over and over again in a relatively short time period, obviously something else is going on.

    I really don't have enough info to give you a fair analysis so I will make my best guess and we'll go from there.

    I am guessing you likely have dsl or possibly cable modem. They are fairly similar so you likely have a dsl modem (box 1) and then you have a dsl router (box 2). Or it may be all in one box.

    The first thing you need to find out is if your signal coming into the box is dropping connection on you or if one of the boxes is causing your problem. To do this, reset whatever you normally do to get things up and working. Now you need to take a look at the lights on the front of these box(s) and check out two things. One, what lights are on and two, what color are they. It probably would be best to write this down. Now when your service stop responding, I am assuming you can't get to any website, email or anything. If that is NOT correct, you need to let me know. After your connection drops, you need to look carefully at the boxes again to see what, if any differences there are regarding the lights. You may have a light that was lit up originally but now it is off. Or you may have a light that was green that is now yellow or red.

    Depending on what you find will usually determine if one of the boxes is puking or if it is a possible cable/port issue or if there is a problem with the incoming service to your home.

    My suggestion to you is to do what I've suggested above, making good notes and then when the system quits on you, you'll have the info you need to provide to Optus.

    I suggest you call them, tell them what is going on BUT DO NOT reset everything even if they ask you to. At least not at first. Tell them you wrote down the status of the lights when everything was working good and now that it has stopped working, you've noticed that light xxx is xxxxx and light xxx was green but now its red, etc. You will need to be pro-active at providing them information. Hopefully the guy on the other end of the phone will say "well, that sounds like you have a xxx problem. You'll need to help them to help you. Sorry to say but this is not unusual. If they argue with you, tell them nicely that you already know that if you reset the equipment, it will work again and that you'd really like to get the problem resolved and can they run a line test for you or tell you more about what is wrong based on your notes.

    Let me know how it goes for you.

  51. hello

    you might have answered a question similar to this but oh well. i have three different computers and one laptop in my house, and all of them but one's internet works fine. My dell windows XP computer drop's its internet connection all the time and doesn't reconnect unless i disable it for about half and hour and then re-enable it. It runs on the same wireless connection as all the other computers in my house yet this is the only one that continually drops its internet connection and its a pain since its my computer and my other family members won't let me use theirs. I've had a lot of viruses on this computer before but i had someone work on it and give me really good virus and spy-ware protection and i run scans all the time to see if my computer is infected but its not so i don't get why its the only one losing connection. do you think you can help me out? if you need any more information about the problem i'll tell you and if i don't know then i'll try my best to find out.

    till then,

    Anna R.

  52. Hey Anna,

    If you have 3 out of 4 PCs at your home working on the same wireless network and those other 3 don't seem to be having any problems, then we can feel fairly certain the problem is not with the network and has something to do with your PC/hardware.

    You don't say for sure but I will assume you have a desktop PC. If you have a Dell notebook, let me know as this reply is geared toward a wireless desktop PC.

    I am also assuming that your PC worked fine wirelessly at one time without dropping the connection. If that is NOT the case, again, let me know.

    Out of curiosity, did your wireless connection dropping began AFTER you got your PC back from having the virus/spy ware protection installed? If so, we need to go one direction. If not, we need to go a different direction.

    I can make general statements regarding troubleshooting of this problem but it sure would be easier for both of us if I had some more detail.

    If the problem started AFTER you got your virus software, etc installed, two things quickly come to mind. One is the new software that was installed may be causing the problem or two, your network configuration profile may have been changed or even deleted while the repairs were being made.

    Can you make the connection drop at will? For instance, does the connection always drop when you check your email or go to a particular website or using instant messenger or is it just a random event when it disconnects?

    Having to disable the network card/connection for half an hour in order for it to reconnect doesn't make a whole lot of sense unless the network card itself is overheating causing it to act up and shutting it off lets it cool off to work again. Never have seen that but first time for everything. The next time it drops connection, shut down Windows and then turn off your PC completely. Wait a minute or two and then fire it back up. It should come back up and reconnect to the network automatically. If it truly does take 30m or so for it to reconnect after being disconnected, you for sure have something odd going on.

    I'm sure you read previous posts where I talk about running low on battery power connecting wirelessly and having 2.4ghz phones that can cause your connection to drop. The location of the wireless network adapter on a desktop PC is also important as most desktop PCs sit under a desk and if the wireless adapter is in the back of the PC, it may be up against the wall and signal may be poor. If that could be the case, trying sliding the PC out as much as possible so the wireless card can have the best possible chance to connect.

    The posts above cover a pretty good range of things to check. Be sure and check your encryption key to make sure it matches EXACTLY what is in the router. If its CAPITAL letters in the router, you need to use capital letters. I cover that in the very early posts at the top of the page. If you run through the entire list of things to check and still have a problem, please let me know and I'll see what I can do to help.

  53. Hey. I wonder if u can help. I've recently got a toshiba satellite notebook as a present, and from what I know it is brand new and looks it. I currently have a wired coNnection from a PC, to a livebox router an it has worked fine for many years. My brother can also connect to the internet wirelessly on the same connection from his laptop and it remains connected. However the new notebook I have, only connects for short periods of times an then disconnects. I've got exams and courseworks in the next couple of weeks so I'm really desperate to get my connection sorted. Could u suggest anything please?

  54. hello

    okay yes my computer is a desktop PC and it did start dropping its connection after we got it fixed. It used to run fine but ever since the hardrive crashed and we moved its been getting viruses non stop. We had someone come in and give us some reliable protection and it began working just like it used to but then randomly one day the connection began shooting out and no matter what we did it wouldn't stop. It just randomly disconnects so i never know when its coming or how to ovoid it. the time it takes for it to reconnect varies. it can take from 2 minutes up to 30 which is when i get sick of it and shut down my entire computer leave it for about five minutes and then rebut it. The encryption key is put in correctly and i don't have my phone with me while i'm on the computer so that shouldn't be interfering and if were anything else within my house then this computer wouldn't be the only one effected by the 2.4ghz interference. My computer is close to a wall but some is another one of them and that one works fine so that could possible the problem but i'm not to sure. if you need to know anything else just ask.

    sorry for the trouble,

    Anna R.

  55. Hey Anna,

    If I understand you correctly, the wireless problem began after having the security software installed. That does happen as sometimes while getting a PC cleaned up from virus/spyware, etc, sometimes things get deleted that you actually need to have.

    You say you know the encryption key is entered correctly. Can you tell me how you know that? The only way to know FOR SURE is to log into the router and see what the encryption key is set to. Obviously, you can try the encryption in all CAPS or all in lower case too but having the encryption key in CAPITAL letters if it needs to be in lower case letters will cause you the kind of problem you have having. Don't make light of this.

    Make SURE you have the correct encryption key. This is by far and away the #1 reason network connections connect and drop at random…

    You haven't mentioned it but if your PC has 2 different network profiles on it, I've seen that cause problems too.

    So let's check that out and here's a quick way to do this…

    Click on the Start button and the menu will pop up. Look IMMEDIATELY above the Start button and you'll see a blank where you can type. Type in the following command:

    ncpa.cpl

    and then press the Enter key on your keyboard. This will open up your network connections window. You are looking for an icon that is labeled Wireless Network connection. Click on it ONCE with your mouse which highlight it. Once highlighted, click on the RIGHT mouse button which will pop up a menu. Go to the bottom of that menu and you will see the word "properties". Click on the word properties with your normal left mouse button and it will open up a box. Now here it gets interesting. IF you have 3 tabs across the top and the middle tab says wireless, you're in luck. If you DON'T have 3 tabs across the top, then you will need to go about this another way and you can stop reading now. You'll need to get someone that is somewhat PC savvy to disable the wireless utility your network card is using and change it so Windows is managing your network card. For now, let's keep our fingers crossed. Click on the middle tab that says wireless and then look directly down toward the bottom of your monitor. You will see a box that has a list of wireless networks that you have connected to in the past. The idea is to keep your wireless network and delete all others. If you find other networks listed that aren't yours or used to be yours but no longer in use for whatever reason, just click on them once and then click the delete button to the right. When you get through, you should have ONLY your network name listed there.

    If you find multiple networks and delete them, then after deleting them, click on the OK button a couple of times and once you are able to do so, do a shut down of your PC. Wait a minute of two and then bring it back up. Try it out and see how it works.

    If you only find your network listed, then obviously this won't be the problem.

    The phone interference I'm referring to is not a cell phone because they don't cause interference with wireless devices (yet!) but actually your home phone. As far as other PCs in the house working, I have seen where a single cordless phone was in a bedroom where a PC kept dropping its connection. The rest of the PCs that were in other areas of the house worked OK. Just making sure you understand I am NOT talking about your cell phone. If you have a 2.4ghz cordless phone, just unplug it from the power outlet where you plug it into the wall. I would also turn the phone over and disconnect the phone line that plugs into the phone jack. Once you've done this, try out your PC. If it stays connected, you need to get a phone that is not a 2.4 ghz.

    Let me know how it goes.

  56. I'm having problems with my internet connection. Until yesterday, my connection has been amazing. Its been so for over a year. Now, when i browse the internet/play xbox, it seems slow and laggy. I tried resetting my router and modem and it was fine for 5 mins. Then it went back to slow. So I tried reinstalling my router and it recognized network settings, but it doesn't recognize the internet and it gives me an internal error. I just let it alone and said ill fix it tomorrow. Now my connection seems fine however, my cell phone isn't able to find my wireless connection, I experience from little to large amounts of lag from time to time when i play online. When I browse the internet, its a little bit faster now, but lags at times. Could it be like this because I didn't "completely" install my router?

  57. Hi Anthony,

    As far as router installations go, most are pretty much plug n play. There's really not a whole lot to do to the router.

    Every vendor is slightly different but usually, if the router is plugged into a working electrical outlet, is powered up (some have a power switch and others power up when you plug them into electricity), is connected to your modem and connected to your PC, there's really not much else involved.

    You mentioned that you reset the router and modem. Most of the time, when you reset a router, it will lose all customized settings and it will power back up with the settings that it came with when it was new out of the box. If you have customized/changed your network name or password from the factory settings, this may be why your phone won't connect to it wirelessly. If you have changed your network name or password, then you have 2 choices. One is to change the network name/password back to what you were using for the previous year and if you have several devices that connect wirelessly, it would probably be better if you did that. Or 2, you can change the network settings on all of your devices to match what the router is currently set for.

    You say both your PC and your xbox sometimes lag in speed. Does this occur if you are ONLY using one device at a time? Try it and see. If it works fine when only one is in use but slows down when both are using the web, then your service may have hiccuped and you may have lost some of your speed in the connection your ISP is providing you. If it worked fine in the past and you haven't made any drastic changes, it should continue to work fine. However, sometimes speed can slow down coming to your house from your provider and if that's the case, then you need to call your service provider and usually they can test the speed of the connection coming to your house. If its slower than it should be, obviously they need to fix that.

    If you are using your PC or xbox wirelessly, then connect one or both hardwired (using a cable instead of wireless) to see if the speed problem goes away. If so, then you may have something interfering with your wireless signal at your home. It is possible for just the wireless OR the hardwired portion of a router to be bad but that is very rare. I have seen it but certainly not the first thing that comes to mind.

    Good luck!

  58. Hey Ash,

    I am guessing you are trying to connect wirelessly and the connection connects and then it drops. If that is not correct, stop reading here and let me know you are connecting hardwired.

    1st question is, has THIS PC ever connected wirelessly AND stayed connected at ANY location? Your house, starbucks, mcdonalds, anywhere? We other PCs at the house can connect to the network so the network is working properly. That leaves us with your PC itself. Maybe a security setting or something. That's why I suggest Starbucks. Most startbucks don't use encryption so you can pop into one, fire up your system and see if it will connect AND stay connected for at least 15 minutes. If it stays connected for 15 minutes, then you know your PC network card is working and the PC is configured properly and the problem is most likely to do with your security key. At starbucks, they don't usually have a security key so if you can connect there but can't connect at home where you most likely have security enabled, then you need to configure your PC for the security code at your home.

    If you can't connect at starbucks wirelessly, then likely your wireless card is turned off (happens every day) or your PC has not been configured to connect to a network or the PC has some missing files or the nic card is bad. The order I listed is the order I would work this problem in.

    Especially with your PC being new and all, they don't come pre-configured for network use….at least not yet. Some do but most don't.

    Good luck!

  59. My issue is that i have a cable modem and router, which works fine until i try and connect a third computer to the internet, at which point it dumps us all off, it will actually work for a maybe 15 minutes but then we all lose connections, Im not sure how to fix this, only two of the pcs are running wireless the other one is a direct line. Can anyone help??

  60. So, with all these great solutions I figured that I would post my issue as well.

    I have a new Netgear RangeMax N 3500L. I just recently changed it from a linxsys G router that dropped constantly. I survived for about 3 days with no drops or any disruptions (it was the happiest few days of internet use I have ever had).

    We have 2 ipods, a laptop, and an international wireless phone, all connected to wifi. The iPods will usually stay connected, but if one goes out after ten minutes, they all do and I simply have to wait for them to reconnect, then they work fine. Lately, the wife has been using the internet phone alot, and of course I will get on the computer while shes talking away. Every 5 to 10 minutes, her call drops and all the connections die. We wait 5 minutes and bam, right back up again.

    When I installed the router it automatically updated the firmware, the ipods and international phone, I cant do anything about, but the laptop, I probably need to check for a new driver. My question is, if one thing has an issue, such as the laptop, will it effect all the connections?

    I also have about 9 townhomes around me all on the same channel, 6. Would it be beneficial to change over to a different channel? I use WPA 2 and for three days, I was in heaven… PLEASE, HELP!!!

    Thanks!

    Dave-

  61. I have had problems with a linksys router that was fine for 4 years. Every 4 to 5 minutes it would disconnect from the internet then it would reconnect by itself after some period of time.

    I called comcast and they told me it was my router and the cable modem was fine. I got a new belkin router that was fine for about 10 days and it too is doing the same thing the other router was. it disconnects and reconnects manually. Called comcast again and they said I needed to change the channel on the router to a less common one and that my network was not secure because the modem is fine. Thing is I can connect directly to the modem and the laptop connects but if I connect to the router with the wire it does the same thing as my wireless connection. it connects then disconnects after a few minutes.

    they said the router was too close to the cordless phone but they have been next to each other for years. Even when I move the phone I still have the connection issues. The router remains connected and I can connect to it from any of the three laptops we own but there is no net connection from the router to the internet. And this happens with both the old and the new router which works perfectly when I connected to someone elses connection. Is it comcast my cable modem or both?

  62. Hey Venus,

    The first thing I would do would be to power OFF ALL of the PCs at your location. Once you have them completely turned off (not in hibernate mode and not by just closing the lid on the notebook but completely powered off), wait a minute or so and then fire up ONLY the PC that you are having problems with to see if it will connect AND stay connected. You don't say if it is wired or wireless but try it out. If it stays connected, try using it for an hour or so. Check email, surf the web, whatever you normally do and leave it powered up and connected. I want to make sure the PC will connect and stay connected if there are no other PCs trying to connect at the same time. Don't turn on any of the other PCs. Leave the room and come back and it should still be connected. I would try this out over a period of few hours.

    Ok, so you've tried this and probably one of three things happened: it wouldn't connect at all or it connected and stayed connected or it could have connected and dropped after 15 minutes or so just like it was doing. Let's take these one at a time.

    It wouldn't connect at all – possible but not likely. I suspect it will connect for you since it was working in the past. But if it won't connect at all, you can stop here and holler back at me.

    It connects and then drops it's connection after a few minutes – if your other PCs are still powered off, then we can't blame them for the problem. As long as you or anyone in your house doesn't get on a 2.4ghz portable phone and start making or receiving calls, then you won't have interference from the phone. I am assuming this is a wireless connection. If the PC with the problem staying connected is connected with a cable, you can disregard the portable phone issue. Regardless of what type of network connection you have, if the connection drops after a few minutes with no obvious changes in the environment, you may have malware/virus, etc on the PC that is killing the connection.

    Finally, if it connects and stays connected – this means your network is good, your notebook hardware is working ok BUT it does NOT mean your PC is properly configured. It may be working ONLY because it's the only PC connected so it doesn't have to follow the rules. "Rules" may not be the most appropriate word but what I am trying to say is that if there is only one PC on the network, it can kinda do what it wants to because it doesn't have to get along with any other PC. But if a 2nd or 3rd PC joins in, they all must set and follow the same rules else they don't get along and in this case, the PC not following the rules is having trouble staying connected.

    By far the most common rule that gets broken when you have a situation like yours is the IP addressing being set incorrectly. I won't go through the whole spill again but if your PC connects and stays connected just find until you fire up another PC, then you may have an IP address conflict. See previous posts above on the explanation of this and how to resolve.

    If you try these things and don't find a solution, let me know. Don't skip any steps and do it exactly as I describe and I bet you find the problem pretty quick.

    Good luck!

  63. Hey Dave,

    You may not like this answer but here's my opinion on "N" protocol network products.

    As of this moment, right this second, there are no standards for devices that run the "N" protocol. Essentially that means companies can make these devices without adhering to any standards which in my opinion, is not good for the industry.

    As an example, imagine that every electrical outlet in your home looks and is built differently from the one in the next room. To plug in your toaster you'd have to go around to each room hoping to find an electrical outlet that your toaster cord could plug into. Now this is a little extreme but basically, that's what's going on with N protocol devices. Since there are no standards, companies are not quite sure how to best build devices that work on a N network.

    Another problem is that not all N protocol routers are backward compatible with the B and G standards. The B standards and G standards have been around for several years and based on my experience, completely compatible with each other. Can't say that for the N products…..yet.

    N products have been out for years but for whatever reason, the products differ slightly and therefore are not always compatible with other N devices much less B and G products.

    I realize that much of this may not make much sense to you but if I were you, if you can return your N router and get a name brand G protocol router, you'll be far better off and likely have much less trouble.

    Regarding the channel, that's a crap shoot but I would set your router to ch11 or so.

    Try a different router first and let me know if you continue to have problems.

  64. hi Rick, thank u for ur response. yes the laptop does connect to the livebox. and it remains connected for long periods of time as long as im close to the livebox, the problem arises when i move to a distance from the livebox, ie a floor up to my bedroom, my laptop disconnects, however using the same livebox for an internet connection my brothers laptop remains connected even if i take it to my bedroom. so the issue is when i take my laptop a small distance from the livebox my laptop disconnects. its either the wi-fi on my laptop o the wi-fi on the livebox. can i add another router or something? thank you

  65. Hey Ash,

    Based on your post, it sounds like you can connect and stay connected if you were a bit closer to the livebox but when you get up to your room, your connection drops.

    Sounds like you might be on the fringe of the wireless range.

    In order, here's what I suggest:

    First, I STRONGLY SUGGEST you connect hardwired (with a cable) before you start this process. Wireless has its place but its place does NOT include upgrading software. It might work great for you but if you connect hardwired, there will be no doubt. Go to the Toshiba website and download the latest drivers for your network card. Doesn't matter how new your system is, there is a good chance there is a newer driver available on the web for your card. BEFORE you download the driver, your best option is to SAVE the driver to your PC. Sometimes sites will try to kickoff the install for you but if that install requires you remain connected to the web and the install removes your current network card driver, your connection will drop and you will NOT be in a good place. So try to SAVE the file to your PC. Usually there is documentation as to whether you should uninstall the old driver first or just update it. Be sure you read any documentation they have for best results. After you get the new driver loaded, disconnect the cable, reboot your PC and when it comes back up, see if you can connect wirelessly when you are close to the livebox. If you connect good there, then it's time to move up to your room to see how it works there. If it works fine there and stays connected, you are done. If you still have the same problem, move on to the next step. My advice to you is once you have it working, STOP. If you feel adventurous and want to play and try to get a better connection, that's fine but always know what it takes to work for you so you can get back there.

    If that doesn't work, next thing is to go to your livebox and we want to check a few things. One, see what channel your network is using and see what your options are. I recommend the highest channel you can select. You'll likely have to login to your livebox to do this. Again, after making the change, test it. I expect it will work fine close up but test it close up first and then move onto your room. Same as before, if it works, great. If not, next step.

    We want to make sure the livebox firmware is up to date. You may have a website for livebox that will tell you what the current firmware is or you may have to contact your Internet service provider (ISP) to get a link from them. This is not a hard process but if you are not a technical person, you would be better off to get a buddy to help or contact your isp for help. Once again, especially here, DO NOT TRY TO DO THIS USING WIRELESS! Ask me how I know….

    After you've verfied/upgraded your firmware, check it out. with a bit of luck, you'll be set to go.

    However, if the problem persists after doing ALL of these steps, then your only choice may be to install a wireless Access Point (WAP). There are lots of products on the market that in my opinion are pretty much worthless so if you decide to go this route, first you want to find out if Livebox makes a this device for their routers as that should be your best bet. If they don't, ask them if they know of a brand model that they KNOW works with the device. If all that fails, google is your friend. Try to find someone who has a livebox and has purchased a WAP that worked for them. Make sure you can return it if it doesn't work. Cisco makes good stuff. If nothing else, check with them.

    Best of luck!

  66. Hi Rick,

    Whenever someone in my family connects the other laptop to our Belkin G Plus router via wifi, it makes my wifi connection to the router intermittently drop out.

    Do you have any suggestions? I've already tried updating the drivers as you suggested. Thanks!

  67. Last year I bought a Macbook Pro and everything was fine and its only recently (maybe 3 months back)the connection with the internet have been weird. It keeps disconnecting itself from the internet. I know it's not my router or home internet because my iphone and other Dell laptop and PC have a consistent connection. The Airport icon has a full bar. I can reconnect, but I have to go to Network settings and fiddle a bit by switching on and off constantly to connect back to the internet, only to be disconnected after an hour or two or when I start my mackbook the next day. I have tried changing the channel to 11 from 6, tried router hard reset, tried updating mac os, airport utitlity and stuff like that, tried on different browsers…etc and am frustrated to the core….appreciate your help before I start hating my mac (no, i cant …I love it minus this issue)

  68. I am using Aztech DSL 1000ER broadband modem (no wireless function). One Windows XP SP3 PC (Desktop) and one Apple laptop is connected to to the modem by ethernet cables.

    When only the Win XP PC is connected to the internet, the internet connection is stable and working fine.

    When both the Win XP PC and Apple laptop are connected to the internet at the same time, both will experience frequent disconnection. The disconnection last about 5 seconds each time and it will automatically be connected again after 5 seconds. This happens about 6 to 8 times every hour.

    I brought my modem (previous same one also having this problem) to the service center and they exchange a new one for me. The modem that I am using now is a brand new modem. Any help is appreciated.

  69. i have a linksys wap54g connected to centurylink modem, it stays up about 3 days then disconnects, also cant use the main computer, have to unplug linksys and plug back into my centurylink modem, then to get the linksys up again, I have to load disk and reconfigure linksys, then ok for 3 more days, everythink is updated.

  70. Hi there,

    just wondering if someone could point me in the right direction with the following – I have set up a wireless home network consisting of two desktop PCs, a laptop, an iPhone, and a Globesurfer III wireless router. Both the iPhone and the laptop ( WinXP TabletPC Edition ) work absolutley perfectly on the network, no issues at all. However, the two PCs ( one on WinXP Pro with USB Wireless Adaptor, the other on Vista Ultimate with an internal wireless PCIe card ) keep disconnecting periodically from the wireless network for no apparent reason, and the only way to get them to connect again is via a reboot. I have tried the following in order to troubleshoot this issue, without success :

    – Disabled IPv6
    – Disabled all power saving measures
    – Disabled QoS scheduler and link layer discovery
    – Updated router firmware
    – Updated wireless card/adaptor driver software
    – Changed wireless channels
    – Adjusted fragmentation threshold of network
    – Tried all possible security settings ( WAP/WEP/No sec )

    All devices on the network have fixed IP addresses, including the router. I can also rule out interference issues, as this problem only occurs with the two desktop PCs, while laptop and iPhone work perfectly even at the exact moment when one the other PCs disconnects. The disconnects happen at random intervals, sometimes once every few days, sometimes every 10min or so.

    This is extremely annoying, and I am out of ideas as to how this could be caused. I should mention that our kids sometimes bring friends home, and when they use their phones, Nintendos etc on our network they do not appear to have any issues, so I am fairly certain this is not a problem with the router or the network itself.
    Any ideas ??

  71. Hi, I tried out the first thing you said. Thank you so much! I t worked and I was trying to fix this problem for 3 years now! Thank you so, so ,so much!!!

  72. EXTREME a,

    I don't recognize your signature but regardless, am glad that you were able to get your system up and working. That's always great to hear.

    Best of luck to you.

  73. Hey Markus,

    Sounds like you tried a few things out without much success. Let's see if we can figure this out….

    I am not familiar with the Globesurfer so I found a manual for it online and went through it quickly. The manual I looked at was at

    novamedia.de/pdf_dokumente/GlobeSurfer_III_Manual.pdf

    Before I started reading, I did a search on the word static and according to my pdf reader, the word static was not listed. I read through quickly and there is no mention of setting this device up to use static ips. Not saying it can't be done but I didn't see anything about doing so in this manual. Just so I am being clear, you mentioned in your post you are using "fixed IP addresses including the router". Static IPs and fixed IP addresses are typically defined as being one and the same.

    I have a fairly long post on static/dhcp addressing in post post #32. I suggest you stop here and read that post. It may be a bit confusing and I'm not the best writer in the world but its important to understand what that post says.

    As I said earlier, I didn't see a way to set up your Globesurfer for static ip addressing. And if you got this recently, you are probably using dhcp addressing. Now your router most likely DOES have a static ip address for the incoming internet service BUT unless you have a business acct, most router devices now days distribute IP addesses to their network devices using dhcp and I think this is where your problem is. If you are setting up fixed addresses on a dhcp network, guarantee you will have problems.

    So basically, all you do is setup each of your devices to use dhcp and the router will take care of the everything else for you. You mentioned having an iphone. I don't have one but it's almost certain the ip addressing for your iphone is dhcp. NOT STATIC. If you know where to go on your iphone, you can take a look to make sure. You might be able to set it up for static IF you had a business acct with your internet service provider but your really don't need static ips for home use.

    So based on this theory, here is what I would do….

    Make SURE you have ALL of your network devices powered OFF except for the router. No exceptions. Then start with one of the PCs that keeps dropping the connection. Go into the network configuration and set it up for DHCP. If the PC is running XP, Vista, Windows 7, you can make the change and it will take effect without rebooting. If you're not sure how to go about this, there are hundreds of pages on the web that will show you. Give it a minute to connect. After it connects, make sure it stays connected. If it stay connected 30m, you're good. Power that one off and then fire up the other problem child. Do the same thing. Test again. After you have done the 2nd one, leave it on and then power up the first PC you just turned off. It should power up, connect and stay connected. So at this point, you should have both PCs that you were having problems with connected and working without losing their connection.

    Ok, so now both of the PCs you were having problems with are now working. Now, power them BOTH off and leave them off. Power up the next network device. Doesn't matter what device and MAKE SURE it is configured for DHCP. You DO NOT need to put in an IP address. The device will do that on its own. As you configure each device for dhcp, make sure they connect and stay connected and then power it off. Go to the next on and repeat.

    It's important that you follow these steps EXACTLY as I've described them here. It's tempting to take shortcuts and power up multiple devices but believe me, there's a reason why I am asking you to do it this way.

    Make sure any network device that you bring in or the kids connect is configured for DHCP.

    Bet your problems will go away and you'll be up and running with no problems.

    If you do have problems, don't hesitate to let me know.

    Have fun!

  74. man my laptop keeps disconnecting from the router, i have the router software installed on mine as the admin there is absolutely no prob with the network because my sister connects wirelessly to the network and stays connected all day. is my pc the only one connected through the router? i use to be able to hit my wifi button with a list of other wireless networks around but now when i hit it nothing appears and when i drag my cursor over the wireless icon it tells me something is interfering or whatever and i should enable it if i want windows to manage it or what not then if i do it will disconnect and tell me something else is managing it (which is the obvious my wireless router) sorry if i'm not being specific i'm not that great at explaining things at lenght in detail it just drives my nuts since i'm the admin on the network and the one having connection issues! please try to help before i kill myself today! thanks!

  75. Hi experts

    i got new fujitsu lifebook A1220 with windows 7 64x, my wifi getting disconnected constantly after few minutes of start and if i restart the system it gets connected…

    i have updated the wireless driver from fujitsu as well but that is also not solving the problem…

    could you please help to resolve this issue.

    Thanks for your help in advance.

    regards

  76. Hey Leo,

    Sorry to hear you're having intermittent problems with your wireless connection. In the posts above, we dealt with most of the common problems and their solutions. I'll run back through this quickly….

    1st, has the notebook EVER worked correctly on your network? If the answer is yes, then something has changed to cause this problem to occur but if the answer is no, then we need to start from scratch.

    Assuming it has never worked correctly would be my guess.

    As always, there are many possible solutions for this problem and we want to play "eliminate one thing at a time" until we get down to the last thing on our list and that is where the problem likes.

    Very first thing to try is a different network. A public network that requires no security is best such as Starbucks offers. Don't go to your buddy's house because he likely has a network that requires a security code just like you most likely have. If you can connect with your notebook at Starbucks AND stay connected for say 30 minutes, then we know the notebook hardware/software is working as it should. Now keep in mind since most Starbucks don't use security to connect to your network, you may have an issue with your security. See previous posts above regarding this. Make sure you try several websites, email, etc. If you can't connect or stay connected at Starbucks, then the problem lies with your notebook itself. Not that its defective but could just be the configuration or settings. Once you've verified/repaired connectivity at Starbucks, time to go back to the house.

    As you'll see in the posts above, intermittent connections (connect and drop) typically are caused by a couple of things. First and foremost, the security encryption key that is being used to authenticate your notebook to your network and two, interference from another device in your home such as a cordless phone. In your case, a third possibility is the router you are using is an older one and not compatible with the "N" wireless protocols. This particular notebook has a wireless card that uses the "N" network protocol. In THEORY, N type cards are backwards compatible with the earlier B/G wireless protocols. This possibility is not common but it would be good to verify with your ISP that the router WILL work with a N protocol wireless card so you can eliminate something else. Some routers have internal settings for this so if they tell you it should work with a N protocol wireless card, ask them if there is anything you need to do/change on the router to get it to work. I'm a bit of a skeptic so even if they told me no, I would probably still login to the router or Google it to see if you can find any other info on this. So get the brand/model of the router and Google it for N connectivity problems. Unless the router is very old, it SHOULD be. SHOULD is the key word in that sentence.

    Read through the posts above if you still have problems and I bet you get it working. Let me know if you don't.

    Have fun!

    Rick

  77. Rick, you seem to be doing most of the trouble shooting so I am directing this at you.

    I'm 17 and got a new laptop for my birthday last year (Feb, 2009). We didn't have a wireless router at the time, and I was tired of use a hard wire. Lately, within the last week, we have been having wireless connection problems, against all devices, 2 of which are the same, and the third laptop is different. We have had stable connection for ages.

    sadly, I cannot go to Starbucks/McD's to test it out, because my parent's have a rule that the laptop stays here or at my mom's. I can test it a bit when I am at my mom's next, but that isn't going to be till the weekend.

    I cannot tell you the info of the router, other than what i guessed off of a google search that got me multiple routers that look exactly like mine, and whose name rung a bell. Reason for this is that my step mom doesn't remember what she did with all of the info for the router, and she is busy with her sick mother.

    This is a copy paste of the info off of one of the websites for it.

    Tech Specs

    Model: WRT160N

    Standards: Draft 802.11n, 802.11g, 802.11b, 802.3, 802.3u

    Ports: Power, Internet, Ethernet

    Buttons: Reset, Wi-Fi Protected Setup

    LEDs: Ethernet (1-4), Wi-Fi Protected Setup, Wireless, Internet, Power

    Cabling Type: CAT 5e

    # of Antennas: 2

    Detachable (Y/N): No

    RF Pwr (EIRP) in dBm: 14 dBm

    UPnP able/cert: Able

    Security Features: WEP, WPA, WPA2

    Security Key Bits: 128-Bit, 256-Bit

    I updated my driver on my laptop as was stated, and it hasn't made a difference. My laptop is an Acer Aspire 5515 by the way. I don't know why, but when I open up my network and right-click > "View Device Webpage" on the router, the screen just sits there loading and doesn't do anything (My last refresh was when I started typing this). I am now hardwired in, so there isn't a connection issue there anymore.

    I have an idea on the culprit, we recent got a baby monitor and it sits in my parents' room, along with our router. Problem is, until my grandma dies, that baby monitor ain't going anywhere, it's needed so that my step mom can hear my grandma if there is something urgent. Now, I don't know what frequency the baby monitor is on, but I know it has a switch with an "A" and a "B" setting (I looked at it trying to find a frequency). It currently sits on "A" and I was wondering if changing it to "B" would help anything.

    Thank you VERY much for any help you can offer me,

    A Deprived Gamer,

    Damian

  78. Something I forgot to mention, there IS a "open" (no key required) wireless network within range of my laptop, and I have been able to connect to that.

    I also talked to ym step mom, and she said her end of the baby monitor (in her room) has been turned off since she only needs it at night, could the one in my grandma's room really be the issue?

  79. Hey Damian,

    Sorry to hear of your problem but I believe the diagnosis will be simple. The solution may be a bit more complicated…

    I'm guessing your wireless problem started shortly after purchasing the baby monitor. The reason I say this is because I looked up the spec on your router and it broadcasts in the 2.4ghz frequency and 99 out of 100 baby monitors ALSO broadcast in the 2.4ghz range so there's going to be fight and you get to be the loser! 😉

    I don't know the brand/model of baby monitor you have at your home but here is a good article that will save me a bunch of typing:

    http://www.buzzle.com/articles/interference-issue

    This article might help explain to your step mom what the problem is so she doesn't think you/I are crazy!

    To 100% validate this, unplug/disconnect all the baby monitors at your location. Unplug the power too. Don't just turn it off. Do this for ALL baby monitors. Then try your wireless connection and it will probably come right up. Plug them back in and bye bye connection. The reason you can access the network next door or wherever it's located is most likely, that signal is coming out of 5.8GHZ router and since you likely don't have any devices at your home that are 5.8ghz, there is nothing to cause interference therefore you can connect to it.

    So if you find all of this to be true, what can you do?

    The easiest, quickest, most painless way to fix this is to replace your router with a 5.8ghz router. The only disclaimer I have is that this will work AS LONG AS you don't have any other 5.8ghz wireless devices at your location. The most common device by far is a cordless phone. Not a cellular phone but a cordless phone. And if you have 5.8ghz cordless phones, you're going to have interference if you use a 5.8ghz router so that is not the best move to make.

    IF and only if you have 5.8ghz phones, then your best bet is to purchase a 5.8ghz router AND replace your 5.8gzh cordless phones (all of them including the base) with the DECT cordless phones. This is the newer technology cordless phones and the DECT phones usually have some nice features usually not available on non-DECT phones. The DECT phones I've seen all use the 1.9gzh frequency and (so far), that frequency is not being used by many manufactures other than for cordless phones. DECT phones in theory are available at other frequencies so if you go this route, be sure and read on the box to makes sure the phone you are looking at broadcasts at 1.9ghz. Anything else is likely to cause you problems.

    Try this out and then you or your step-mom will have a decision to make.

    Best of luck!

  80. Hey Nino,

    Since your sister can connect wirelessly to the network and stay connected without a problem but you can't, there most likely is a problem with your laptop. It could be that she is using a static IP address but for the moment, based on your post, I think your laptop has a problem.

    On most home wireless networks, all network devices, laptops, iphones, etc all connect via the router.

    You say that when you hit your wifi button, it used to show you several networks to connect to but now it doesn't show any. When everything is working as it should be, when you press the wifi button to turn it on, your network card looks around for any wireless network it can find which is why you see several networks. But the fact that now it does not show ANY networks means either everyone's network is turned off (VERY unlikely) or your network card (nic) is not working as it should. My vote is for the nic or nic configuration.

    As far as your message about managing the card, I sure wish Windows would be more explicit in their messages but anyway…Let's say the nic in your laptop is made by dlink. So on your PC somewhere, there will be software called dlink nic configuration manager or something along those lines. This is the software that came with the nic to help you configure the card to work on your network which is all fine and dandy. HOWEVER, Windows ALSO will manage the nic for you. So the error message you are getting is Windows telling you that some other application is managing the card therefore Windows can't do anything for you. That's not 100% correct but in this situation, let's assume it is.

    The choice you need to make is whether to let Windows manage your card or whether to let the dlink software manage your card. From a support point of view, it's always best to let Windows manage the card because Windows manages most all network cards the same way, using the same screens, etc and that makes it easy for the tech guy to help you. I don't have to see your PC to help you with this because I have those screens memorized.

    But if you use Dlink, Dell, Netgear, etc, etc, EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THESE CARDS HAVE DIFFERENT SCREENS AND HAVE A DIFFERENT LOOK TO THEM SO THERE'S NO CONSISTENCY. If I were sitting at your PC, I could figure it out as I go but if you have a Netgear card, this netgear card would have this screen, this netgear card would have an entirely different screen, etc. Makes support very difficult unless you know that brand/card intimately. That's why myself and most techs like to use Windows to manage the network cards cause it doesn't matter what brand/model, etc the card is, ALL THE SCREENS ARE THE SAME.

    Anyway, this is a situation where you will probably need to get some local help. If you know someone pretty good with PC/networks, they can likely get you going pretty quick. Any PC repair shop should be able to tell you what's wrong and fix it pretty quick. The exception is if a virus or spy-ware is causing the problem which certainly can be the issue. But before you go there, see if you can get the network card where it sees other networks when you press the button because until you can see other networks, you're not going to be able to connect to yours. Once you can see the other networks, you should be able to connect to yours.

    Have fun!

  81. Hey Ken,

    Not much info to work with. When you say "it stays up about 3 days", what device are you referring to?

    It sounds like you have to reload/reconfigure the software on your PC to get the linksys going again? Is it losing the configuration or ? Is the software disappearing from your PC or ?

    Are you trying to connect wirelessly to the linksys?

    Provide me some more detail about your PC, wireless/hard wired, why you are reloading the software, etc and I'll do my best to help you out.

    Thanks!

  82. Thanks for the help. Unfortunately, being in school and jobless leaves me without the money to replace the router, and sadly, we probably wont need the baby monitor anymore by the time I could replace the router. My parents wont replace it because, well, they use desktops and are hard wired in, they have no issue, so yeah XP.

    Guess I just wait it out/use the free cable till we can stablize wirelessly again.

    Damian.

  83. Hey Damian,

    One thing you could do is turn off Grandma's monitor during the day which should allow you to use your laptop wirelessly. Then whenever they need it in the evening, they can turn it back on. You wouldn't be able to use your laptop in the house when they turn it back on but at least it would give you some time during the day.

    Also since it is a laptop, if you can sit outside on the front porch or back porch, that might let the other (unsecured) signal you're getting come in good enough to use in the evenings.

    Just a thought…..

  84. I think my step mom has been turning it off during the day now. I noticed that I've had our home connection stable since I got home from school, and I brought up that it was most likely the cause last night. And at night's I've been using the open network or going into the kitchen and jacking the ethernet cable from the computer in the kitchen, since no one uses it anyways.

  85. I followed your directions above, and it didnt work. Here is what is going on…for the past few days whenever I start up my computer the wireless network connection is not connected…so I have to go run services.msc and start the wireless zero configuration…then from there I go to connect to>>wireless network properties>>wireless network tab>> then i have to re check the box that says "use windows to configure my wireless network settings….go down to preferred networks and remove my name…..then I have to go to>>>>connect to>>>wireless networks…then re connect to my network and this is every time I get on the computer and want to use the internet..sometimes I have to do it when I close the web browser for a few secounds…any suggestions?

  86. 66. To B.

    How are you?

    My advice to you is based on the following assumptions:

    Either laptop will connect and stay connected with no problem AS LONG AS the other laptop is not powered up. Please try that out FIRST and if this statement is true, then you probably have an IP address conflict. Make sure one laptop is powered off completely and then connect with the other laptop. After 20m or so and it has not given you any problems, then power off the connected system and power on the other laptop. BE SURE AND DO IT IN THE ORDER THAT I SPECIFY HERE.

    Scroll back up the page to post 31 and my response which is post 32. These people were experiencing the same kind of problem. Don't worry because they have a Mac and you have a Windows PC. All network devices, regardless of who makes them, need an IP address to get on the network.

    Read through those posts and holler back if you still are unable to get it to work.

    Good luck!

  87. To Post #67 Boney

    Hey there,

    I doubt you will start hating your MAC. They are good machines.

    As you stated, doesn't sound like your network is the problem because your other devices connect and stay connected. And it also sounds like you've done a good job or troubleshooting. So based on your statements, we need to give the MAC a hard look.

    If you read the posts here often, this may sound like a broken record. Only 2 things come to mind. One one of your MAC hardware devices is faulty or two, you have your MAC configured for static IP instead of dhcp.

    I'm pretty sure if you were using static IP addressing, you would have mentioned it. Or at least, I hope you would have.

    Let's check the hardware first. Make sure ALL other network devices, your other PCs, your Iphone, EVERY

  88. Sorry Boney, hit the wrong button on my keyboard. It's dark in here!

    Let's try again.

    Let’s check the hardware first. Make sure ALL other network devices, your other PCs, your Iphone, EVERY network device is powered off completely. THEN, power up your Macbook Pro and let's find out if it will connect and stay connected. Don't turn on anything else.

    If it connects and stays connected for 30 minutes or so, then your Mac hardware is fine. However if it doesn't stay connected or connects and then drops its connection, then you probably have some faulty hardware. Apple makes some very good hardware and it doesn't fail very often but nothing is perfect. So if works, great. If not, stop here and get your Mac repaired. Take in your airport, cables, etc. Maybe it will be something simple.

    Assuming it connects and stays connected, time to look at the ip addressing on the Mac. It sounds like you're familiar with how to do this but let me give you a link in case you have questions…

    http://va.zensupport.co.uk/

    It's not 100% up to date but probably close enough.

    Remember, you do NOT want to use static ip addressing for your MAC. DHCP is what you want.

    Give it a try and let me know how it goes.

  89. #68 Will

    Hey Will,

    Don't know if you still have this problem or not. The post is about 3 weeks old.

    I'm gonna make a couple of suggestions for you in case you haven't gotten the problem resolved yet.

    I noticed that you said you could plug in your XP desktop and it works fine. That statement tells me your network, router, etc are all working fine. It also says your XP desktop is working too BUT it could be configured for static IP and if your network is configured for dhcp, you can usually get by if you are only using one PC but if you add another one, then problems can start.

    I didn't see anywhere where you said you could plug in your Apply laptop by itself and it also worked. You may have just forgotten to put in the post but anyway, connect up the Apple laptop ONLY and see if it connects and stays connected. If it won't connect or it connects and then drops the connection, you have an issue with the Apple laptop and you'll need to get someone there local to check it out for you.

    Assuming it connects and stays connected, now plug in your XP desktop and power it up.

    I don't know how comfortable you are but if you login to your Aztech device (look at your user manual if you're not sure how) and you want to find out what ip addresses both devices are using and you want to make sure the addresses are different. Keep an eye on your router with both devices plugged in. If either one disconnects, your router should show you that. I suspect you either have the router not properly configured or you have an ip address conflict. If you can't see a problem, do a hard reset on the router itself and then try connecting both again. I couldn't locate an owners manual on your router but most have a hard reset button on them that puts all the settings back to factory settings.

    Let me know if you don't have any luck.

  90. Post #85

    Hey Aleesha,

    So after you go through the wireless 0 network configuration, you are able to connect but you'd really rather not have to do this every time you want to connect to the web. I think that's what you are saying. If I'm wrong, let me know.

    On every wireless card I've ever seen, they all come with a utility or wireless configuration manager software which is used to prevent the very problem you are having. You run this program once, put in the name of the network you want to connect to, your password, etc and then save it. The next time you boot up, the wireless card in your PC sees your network and looks for the configuration file for that network and it automatically connects using the information you put into the configuration.

    Let me be careful how I say the next statement. Windows/Apple OS will also do this for you….almost. You can EITHER let Windows take care of this for you OR you can choose the software that came with your card. If you want Windows to manage your wireless, no problem BUT if Windows doesn't have the network drivers (software) for your network card, then it will be looking for you to supply it. If your card was built in or is not older than 3-4 yrs old, Windows will probably recognize the card and you can manage it with Windows with no problem.

    Unless the software that came with your network card/PC does some really fancy stuff, it's easier to let Windows manage the wireless connection for you in my opinion. You set it up once and unless you replace your router or change your password to access the network, you set it up once and you're done. On a Windows 7 PC, I can setup a new wireless network in about 10 seconds! Using your software that came with the card, would take probably 3-4 minutes.

    Either way will work but if you can't find the software, try letting Windows manage the wireless connection for you. If I knew what Operating System you were running, I could probably point you to a website to help.

    But if you are running XP, just google "managing a wireless network with xp" and I got 930,000 hits and the 2nd one on the list had screen shots, full directions, everything you need to know. If you have vista, just substitute XP with Vista in your Google search.

    I think you'll find it easier to do than you think.

    One more thing. If all was well before, you need to try and figure out how you got to where you are today. I've seen some nasty viruses do things like this so try and figure out what happened because if you don't, you might be redoing all this in a week or two.

    Best of luck to you!

  91. I can connect to my Belkin wireless router alright with my laptop, but every time i disconnect i have to turn the router off at the mains for about half a minute then turn it back on before i will be able to connect to it again.

    What i must explain is that the router is not setup with a computer, instead it is simply plugged into another wireless router, but we do not know the password for that one, so we use this one because we do know the password. the other router is connected via a cable to our main computer and that computer does not get the internet wirelessly.

    Any help,

    if you need any clarification i will tyr to give it to you.

    Edward

  92. Hey Edward,

    As I understand it, you have a Belkin wireless router plugged into another router. Let's call the main router router 1 and the Belkin router, we'll call Belkin.

    So you are connecting wirelessly from your laptop to the Belkin but you say when you disconnect, you have to turn off the power going to the Belkin and then turn the power back on before it will reconnect. I agree that's what will happen but the part I don't understand is why you want to disconnect.

    Let's say you are checking your email and a few websites. Everything is working fine. When you get through checking your email, it's time to go to work. So at that point, you would just power down your laptop. Just turn it off. That's all you would need to do. When you are ready to use your laptop again at your home, just turn it back on and it will automatically reconnect to the Belkin. If the Belkin is powered up and the laptop is powered up, the laptop will always be connected to the Belkin. You don't have to turn off the power on the Belkin. I would advise you leave it on 24×7 unless you only use it once a week or something.

    Hope that makes sense to you. Sounds like your connection is working fine but maybe someone told you to disconnect after you were through but that's not necessary. Lots of people just leave their laptop on and running (as long as it's plugged into electricity) and they check their mail every couple of hours or something. You don't have to worry about disconnecting when you are through. Just turn off the laptop and you'll be set.

    If I have missed your point completely, let me know.

    Have fun!

  93. Hi,

    My connection is dropping constantly and i don't know what to do. I have this thing called brighthouse internet. I have a voip cable modem and a linksys wireless G router. I am mainly frusterated because my xbox is constantly disconnecting and going red bar in the middle of my game. then it DC's me from xbox live.

    Along with my xbox DCing, everything else in the house goes off too, my other computers, the vonage phones (yes i have new vonage devices and havent checked out if they are 2.4ghz yet, i'm not at my house, the internet is down, i am typing from a different location)

    We got a new modem but it is still dropping. It usually disconnects every 20 minutes and i have to unplug and replug to even get reconnected. I am sure it is either the router or some of the other devices interfering, but i am wondering what you can tell me and if you can help? thank you.

  94. that seems to be right thank you. But is it ordinary for me to have to turn it on then off if i disconnect from it whilst my laptop is still on. Also, sometimes it justs disconnects even when my laptop is on and still connected to it.

  95. Hey Patrick,

    I understand how frustrating your situation is. I don't have a lot of info to work with but I believe your best bet is to power off/disconnect/unplug all of your vonage phones, turn off your PCs completely and then after ALL of your network devices have been turned off, THEN try out your xbox and see if you stay connected. I'm thinking you're xbox will probably stay connected. If it does, then you likely have so 2.4ghz modem/router and you probably have some other equipment that is also running at 2.4ghz which is causing

    your problem.

    If it WON'T stay connected and you are SURE you have everything else powered off, then you have a problem with your xbox, router or network. Make sure you can connect hardwired (using a cable) with your xbox. If you can't stay connected using a cable, then your xbox network interface is having a problem or the router itself. You probably won't have any trouble hardwired but if you do, you need to find out what is causing it cause that could be causing your wireless issue as well.

    So take it one step at a time. Once you know your xbox will connect and stay connected, we know the xbox itself is fine and your network is fine. Then take a look at your vonage phones and see if they are 2.4ghz. If they are, you need to swap them if you can for a phone that uses a different frequency. Vonage should be able to tell you which other phones they offer that will work.

    Good luck!

  96. Edward,

    I'll be glad to try and try to help you out but if you would, please repost again.

    When you use the terms "it", I am not sure what you are referring to. Your situation is a bit unusual having 2 routers so repost using specifics so that I can better understand your problem and I'll do what I can for you.

  97. that seems to be right thank you. But is it ordinary for me to have to turn Belkin on then off if i disconnect from Belkin whilst my laptop is still on. Also, sometimes when my laptop is still connected to Belkin i just lose connection and if i try to re-connect to Belikn it says that my laptop cannot reconnect. So then i will tunr Belkin off then on and mostly it will work, but sometimes i have to resart my laptop aswell.

  98. Hey Edward,

    Your laptop shouldn't disconnect from your Belkin while both are powered up. If this is happening, you likely are using the wrong encryption key or you have another device in the house that is creating interference with your connection which causes it to drop. Of course it is possible to have a bad router or notebook. You can test/eliminate the notebook as a problem by going to a different location that offers wireless such as Starbucks. If you can stay connected there for 30 minutes or so, then nothing is wrong with your notebook but if you connection drops there, then you have a problem with the notebook or the network card itself.

    In the posts above, I have addressed both of these issues. Read post #25 starting paragraph 3. Read posts 1-4 regarding your security settings.

    Good luck!

  99. Dear Rick,

    First of all I would like to thank you for the helpful and informative tips which you give on your website. You are a godsent !

    Unfortunately, I have not yet been able to resolve my issues by using your guidance and I am at a loss what else to do.

    BACKGROUND

    I have been using two laptops, a Samsung P35 and a Fujitsu Lifebook with a Netgear DG834G router for years without any problems. However, when both computers broke down in April due to unrelated hardware issues, I bought 2 netbooks, a Samsung N120 and a Fujitsu M2010. Ever since, I experienced frequent internet disconnects, ranging from every 15 minutes to every few hours.

    My ISP, Talktalk, upon checking my line, advised me that my router was at fault and agreed to send me in turn 2 new routers, a D-Link DSL 2640R/TT and a Huawei EchoLife HG520b, both of which experience the same problems.

    PROTOCOLS

    • All routers use 802.11b+g protocol

    • Both laptops use an Ethernet 802.3 type wireless adapter

    • N120 uses a Realtec RTL8192E 802.11n PCI-E NIC adapter

    • M2010 wireless adapter model: Atheros AR5007EG

    • All routers and laptops are DHCP enabled

    • PVC Data on routers: VPI/VCI: 0/38, PPPoA, VC Multiplex

    • MTU set to 1432 at ISP’s request

    • PPP Authentication was set to ‘AUTO’

    • I use a nailed-up connection on all routers.

    • Authentication type: WPA-PSK / WPA2-PSK

    • Encryption mode: TKIP / AES

    • All computers use Windows XP, fully updated.

    • Signal strength is good to excellent in all cases

    PROBLEMS

    When using my computers either separately or jointly, I experience the following problems:

    1. Frequent Internet Disconnects. This occurs every 15 minutes to every few hours (some days appear to be worse, such as weekends). The D-Link is particularly useless, disconnecting every few minutes. The Huawei and Netgear appear to work better, but still disconnect frequently.

    Typically, the wireless and ADSL lights are green whereas the Internet light goes red shortly after the internet connection drops. Generally, the ADSL light is steady, but sometimes it flashes intermittently, though not necessarily in connection with a subsequent disconnect. When a disconnect occurs, I can solve the issue only by switching off and back on the router, but on occasion I may have to do so several times in a row.

    2. Internet Disconnect on 1 computer while remaining available on the other computer. This tends to happen more often with the M2010. In this case, all the lights on my router remain green.

    3. All routers regularly disconnect from the internet even when both computers are switched off. So, usually in the mornings, the Internet light is red (all other lights are green) and I have to reboot the routers. Nevertheless, my ISP insists that my telephone lines are OK.

    4. Both computers experience internet disconnects even while wired to the router by Ethernet cable. I have tried this with the Netgear and have experienced 2 disconnects over a 24 hour period.

    5. Sometimes, my Samsung N120 appears to ‘knock off’ my Fujitsu M2010 when I use them in close proximity. On several occasions, when this happens I am getting a message “Windows System Error: There is an IP address conflict with another system on the network”. In these cases, I have to reboot my Fujitsu M2010 and after rebooting, key systems such as the keyboard become totally dysfunctional and I have to restore the computer to a prior restore point. I don’t know if this issue is related, but it points to wireless interference which may also cause problems with the router.

    ERROR LOGS

    When looking though my Windows XP Event Viewer (System log) for DHCP-related Error messages, I came across the following message on a number of occasions, although I cannot now confirm whether this occurred in connection with an internet disconnect:

    ERROR: “The IP address lease 192.168.X.Y for the network card with network address (my MAC address) has been denied by the DHCP server. (The DHCP server sent a DHCPNACK message)”

    WARNING: “Your computer was not able to renew its address from the network (from the DHCP server) for the network card with network address (my MAC address) . The following error occurred: The semaphore timeout period has expired. Your computer will continue to try and obtain an address on its own from the network (DHCP) server”

    WARNING: “Your computer has detected that the IP address 0.0.0.0 for the network card with address (my MAC address) is already in use on the network. Your computer wil automatically attempt to obtain a different address:

    SOLUTION ATTEMPTS

    1. Regarding the wireless adapter drivers, both computers are new and all systems have been fully updated at first installation in April.

    2. As you suggested, I entered the wireless encryption key exactly as I had originally set it up, making sure to respect case sensitivity. This encryption key did not cause any problems in the past.

    3. I also confirm that I am not using a cordless phone. There is a wireless doorbell broadcasting at 433 MHZ but I have been using this for years without problems. My TV is hardly on and I am not using any other wireless equipment nor have I moved anything. I cannot vouch for what equipment my neighbours use, though, but I am not aware of any changes.

    4. I have been using both netbooks separately in other locations without any problems. In this case, the connections were unsecured.

    5. I have been using both routers both in ADSL2, ADSL2+, Multi and G.DMT mode and with MTU settings of 1492, 1500 and 1432. Also, I have been using a number of channels on all routers.

    6. I have exchanged the microfilter and I have used both computers on all three routers both with the telephone hooked on and while disconnected from the microfilter.

    QUESTIONS

    Rick, I am at a loss what else to do. Could you please give me your advice as to :

    1. What else would you recommend to do in order to solve the internet disconnection issues ?

    2. Why does my router disconnect from the internet even when both computers are switched off or while connected by Ethernet cable ? Is my ISP correct in advising that the problem is with my router ?

    3. How can I resolve the apparent incompatibility / wireless interference between my 2 netbooks?

    4. Do you think that the fact that my Samsung N120 has an N-type wireless adapter whereas the Fujitsu M2010 has a G-type adapter whereas my routers are all set to b+g is an issue?

    5. What other diagnostics would you recommend ?

    Thanks a bundle, and thanks for your many great tips !

    Paul

  100. Hey Paul,

    First, thanks for the kind words. Always appreciated! And second, I appreciate all of the info. This info makes it SO much easier to help people out.

    I have read your post a couple of times. It is still early here for me so maybe I'm still a bit sleepy but best I can tell, you are using 2 routers at a single location for 2 different netbooks. Is that correct?

    I know of no reason why you would need 2 routers at a single location especially if you are just trying to use 2 netbooks at that location. Again, there may be some extenuating circumstances that I am not aware of but since the rest of your post was so detailed, this just doesn't make sense to me.

    Per your post:

    "I have been using two laptops, a Samsung P35 and a Fujitsu Lifebook with a Netgear DG834G router for years without any problems".

    Now that statement I would believe. You have 1 router for 2 notebooks and it has worked well for years. Makes perfect sense to me.

    Another quote from your post:

    "I have been using both netbooks separately in other locations without any problems. In this case, the connections were unsecured".

    Again, this is understandable. If you were at a Starbucks or any other location, they typically have only 1 router for all of their customers. So you could take either or both systems in their location and both should connect and work just fine. The security at a Starbucks and at your home is certainly different as it should be but they open it up at Starbucks because most of the people there are not techies and by doing this, most network devices just automatically connect and work on their own.

    So the risk of oversimplying the situation, I am going to suggest the following:

    1 – power off and then unplug from power and disconnect one of the routers completely and put it off in a corner or somewhere out of the way.

    2 – turn off the other router and both netbooks and any other network devices. Leave all of them off for 30 seconds at a minimum.

    3 – power up the router ONLY first. Once it powers up and lights start blinking (usually 15-20 seconds), THEN power up ONE of your netbooks. Doesn't matter which one but one ONLY. See if it connects to the internet and make sure it will stay connected. Check your email, a few websites and makes sure all is working as it should. I'd say if you don't have any connection issues while doing this, then fire up the other netbook. While you're powering up the 2nd netbook, keep an eye on the 1st one. It should NOT disconnect and in fact, you should not even be able to see any difference while the 2nd notebook is booting up. Once the 2nd netbook powers up, do the same thing. Check it out and make sure it works as advertised.

    Now keep in mind that if you really are using 2 different routers, you will have to reconfigure both of your netbooks to connect to the one router you are using. It sounded like you had 1 notebook associated with 1 router and the 2nd notebook associated with the 2nd router. All I am saying is that you will need to configure each netbook for the 1 router that you will be using for your test. I'm sure you know that but I know a reminder is always a good thing for me.

    Anyway, try all this out and please let me know how it goes for you. If I am totally off-base, don't hesitate to let me know and we'll go about this a different way.

    Good luck!

  101. Dear Rick,

    Thanks for your comments and sorry for being unclear:

    I am of course only using 1 router at a time (wirelessly), but my ISP sent me another router of a different brand because the problem continued. My point was that the problem occurred with 3 different routers and with 2 different computers, irrespectively of whether they were used single or together, or even if they were switched on at all (as I wrote, the Internet light on all routers frequently goes red after a few hours even when no laptop is switched on). Nevertheless my ISP insists – after some tests – that my telephone line is OK, and I fail to understand how that can be.

    So my questions are this:

    1- If there is interference between my laptops and the router(s), can this interference occur even when the laptops are switched off? If not, then interference cannot be the only reason for the internet drops (even if may may have an unrelated interference problem in other respects).

    2- Given that my ISP insists that they have tested the line and have found no problems, what other explanations could exist that would make my router disconnect from the internet (even when the computers are switched off)?

    3- Should I order an independent line check ? (But for that money I could buy 3-4 new routers !).

    4- I am happy to buy a new router (perhaps one with N capability), but I need to understand what to look out for to ensure that it is compatible with my systems and to minimize any interference.

    I have done what you suggested many many times – it is the only way I can get the routers working again – for a short while.

    Regarding the question whether to use 1 or 2 computers conjointly, I would already feel very happy to get 1 working at a time (the other one is my wife's).

    I realize that there is some interference between the two computers because they keep knocking each other out of the internet while the other computer remains connected – but this is a separate problem which we can resolve separately. I wanted to mention it only to give you a full picture.

    Another point I wanted to add regarding my wireless doorbell: there is no interference from here since the internet disconnect problem continues even when I switched the wireless doorbell off.

    Thanks again for your invaluable help and feedback !

    God bless you !

    Paul

  102. Hey Paul,

    I appreciate you letting me know the error of my ways so let's see what we can do here.

    I am going to tell you the way I would approach this situation. I would encourage you to follow these steps but they are fairly long. Not difficult but our goal is to not make any assumptions or overlook anything. I also realize you may have done much of this already but humor me.

    Finally, I realize you are a technical guy and sometimes that's the hardest kind of person to work with to get a problem resolved (ask me how I know!) and I in no way am talking down to you. I know you want to get your problem resolved and I also want to get your problem resolved so what I am about to tell you is exactly what I would do if I were there at your location.

    OK, our first goal is to get one of your netbooks working properly. I suggest you pick yours since you're likely more familiar with it and for now, let's focus on your system only.

    1 – Pls check with Talk-talk TO VERIFY the type of IP addressing they are providing you. There are 2 types. DHCP and Static. We need to know FOR SURE what type they are providing for you. If they are providing you with DHCP, check out this link and verify your PC is configured for DHCP.

    http://helpdesk.louisiana.edu/Guides/Ethernet/dhc

    If Talk-Talk is providing you with a static IP, use this link instead and skip steps 1 and 2. Start with step 3…

    http://www.ehow.com/how_4393725_static-ip-address

    If you are using static IP, you will need to contact Talk-Talk, find out their recommended IP address, subnet settings and DNS servers. ANY numbers that you see in these websites are just examples. Don't put ANY of those numbers in on your PC. You'll need to use the settings that Talk-Talk provides you.

    Your netbook most likely has 2 network connections. One is wireless and the other is hardwired (Ethernet). You will need to check BOTH connections to make sure they are BOTH configured for whatever Talk-Talk tells you. DHCP or Static. So you will need to do the previous process twice. Once for each network interface, wired and wireless.

    2 – Go to your local coffee shop or public area that has wireless. Make sure you can connect and stay connected. If you were told by Talk-Talk to use static IP addressing, you may or may not be able to get on a public network. But if using DHCP, you should have no problem. If you can't connect on a public network, then there is a problem with the dhcp configuration or the netbook hardware itself. Assuming this works for you, time to head back to the house.

    3 – Pls reboot your PC. Connect an Ethernet cable from your PC to one of your router ports. See if will connect and stay connected. You know the drill. If it connects and stays that way, great. If not, disable your firewall. Once disabled, try to connect again. If unable to connect, try a different website. If you can connect with the firewall disabled, the firewall probably needs to be reconfigured. If this is Windows firewall, try setting it back the default settings. If you can not connect to any website at all, unplug the Ethernet cable, reboot your pc and do a hard reset on your router. This is NOT the power switch but rather a hard reset where you may have to press in on a pin or something for at least 30 seconds to do a factory reset on the router itself. This should be in the user documentation for the router and/or Talk-Talks website. IF you are using static IP AND IF you had to do anything to the router to get static IP configured, this will wipe it all out and you'll need to redo that part. After the router comes back to life, try to connect again. If it works, great. If not, next step.

    2. We are going to check your connectivity from your PC to your router. Click on the Start button and just above the Start button, you should see "Run". Click on Run and it will open a blank space. Type in cmd and press enter. This should open a black DOS window on your screen. Once the screen is up, type in "ipconfig". This should give you some info about your network connection. The very first thing I want to look for is your IP address. Its usually about the 2nd line down in the info table you'll see on your screen. Every isp is different but if you are using static ip addressing, you should see the static ip address you put in on your PC here. If you are using DHCP, then I would expect that you would see a number that starts off with 192.xxx.xxx.xxx. So 192.168.1.2 is just fine. If you are using dhcp, a lot of providers would give you 192.168.1.2. IF you are NOT getting a number that starts with 192, your isp may be using a different range of numbers. They could tell you for sure. BUT if you see an ip address of something like 169.242.193.129, the 169 address is not good. This means your PC does NOT see your router at all which is why you can not connect. If you do get a 169 address, then I would move the Ethernet connection on the router to a different port first and if that does not work, then try a different cable. If neither of those work, do this. Open you DOS window back up by typing in Run, CMD. Once you have the black box up, type in "ping 127.0.0.1" without the quotes. It should give you positive results in your black DOS window. However if it doesn't, try it again. If you still get bad results in the DOS window, then your TCI/IP stack on your PC is missing or corrupt. Assuming you get through all that ok, one more test. Connect back up your ethernet cable from your PC to your router. In the DOS box, type in your ip address except in the last part of the number, change it to a 1. For instance, if your ip address is 192.168.1.2, then type in 192.168.1.1 and press enter. It should ping. If the ping times out, you either have a bad network port on your netbook (unlikely but possible) or a bad port on your router (again, unlikely but possible) or a bad ethernet cable. I would run this test 4-5 times because I have seen it test good the first time, bad the 2nd time and good on the 3rd and 4th times. You want consistent results whether they are good or bad. A mixture of results is saying that something is ALMOST good or ALMOST bad……but not quite so be sure and do this test a few times. Key in on consistency.

    That's it for today. Let me know how this went and we'll go from there.

  103. Hello again Rick,

    I am having problems yet again, though since I was last here, until earlier this week, things were working just fine.

    I'm honestly completely baffled at what is wrong.

    I will start off by saying that it wouldn't appear to be a problem my computer has connecting to a network, because I am currently connected to the Open Network for the appartments accross the street.

    When I try to connect to my own network, if it lets me at all, it will say that I am connected locally and to the internet. However, whenever I try to do something on the internet, it will take a LONG time, sometimes it takes 5+ minutes to load a single webpage.

    I'm really getting tired of fighting with staying connected to te internet accross the street. I'm barely in range so i drop off that connection a lot.

    If the info I have given isn't enough (which wouldn't surprise me cause I'm not "techy" enough to know what to say), feel free to ask questions and I will try to find the answers. Also any suggestion you think you could give me that could possibly be great.

    Thank you,

    Damian

  104. Damian,

    I don't know if you've tried what I last posted but if you haven't, that would be a great place to start.

    After you have the baby monitors disconnected, see if you can connect to your network. You probably will be able to but if you can't, turn off the encryption in your router, remove the encryption from your laptop and then see if you can connect. If you can connect now, then you most likely have the wrong password on your laptop. But if you are able to connect wirelessly, plug all your baby monitoring systems back in and if your wireless connection drops, its because of the interference from the baby monitors.

    Try this out and let me know if you still have problems.

  105. Rick,

    Well, I was trying to get into my router to change the encryption settings, but it needs a user/pass. Do you know what the defaults are? Or if there is a way I can check? Cause my step mom doesn't know where all the info she has for our router is and she doesn't have time to go through a bunch of papers to find it. And it's been so long since I've messed with our router settings that I don't remember it.

    Thanks for the help,

    Damian

    Oh, by the way, with the ethernet cable, I did all the ping stuff, and they all went through fine with an average of 0ms

  106. Hey Damian,

    Your very best bet on your password is the company that provides your internet service to you and most likely supplied you with the router. If you call them they will be able to tell you the DEFAULT password their techs normally use but of course, the password may no longer be the default one.

    I'd call them, find out what the default password it, ask them how to login and try it while you're on the phone with them. If it works, great. If not, tell them that password is not working and ask them how to set it back to the default. Usually this can be done by doing a hard reset on the router but it probably be worthwhile to ask them.

    Regarding your ping test, as long as your got a reply from the router, that is good. If you didn't get a reply, that's bad.

    While you have them on the phone, ask them to help you get connected. Not sure who your isp is but virtually all of them offer tech support to get you back up and running. Let me know how it goes for you.

  107. Dear Rick,

    Thanks for your kind advice and sorry for not getting back earlier – I was away for a few days. And also: I never thought you were talking down to me :-), on the contrary, I am very grateful for your help and your precious time !

    I did everything you said in your reply (102) of June 17th. Here are the results:

    (1) I verified with my ISP that their IP addressing method is indeed DHCP. The IP address is 192.168.1.2 just as you said.

    (2) I verified that both my LAN Ethernet and my WAN wireless adapter are set to DHCP (they were).

    (3) I tried my computer to connect wirelessly to a site outside my home, and I got a connection.

    (4) I verified the IP address via the IPCONFIG, command, and it also came out right.

    (5) I did the ping 127.0.0.1 test, and it came out alright.

    (6) When I entered 192.168.1.1 at the cmd prompt, the system told me that this was not a recognized command, but when I entered "ping 192.168.1.1", it came out alright again.

    In fact, as I mentioned in my previous postings, the issue is not between my computer(s) and the router (the wireless connections are usually strong to excellent) but seems to be between the router and the Internet.

    The issue is also not that I cannot connect to the internet at all – it is rather that after connecting for, say, 15 or 30 minutes, the internet connection just disconnects and does not reconnect unless I switch my router off and back on.

    For this reason, the fact that I could indeed connect to a wireless point outside my house does not necessarily mean that there is no problem – I just may have not been staying long enough to find out. But having done so on a number of occasions, I don't feel the problem lies with my computer's not being able to connect, but rather either of the following issues (just my hypothesis, to help you):

    (a) there may be problems in the way by which each of my two computer(s) handle wireless authentication with each of my router(s), perhaps because the Samsung has an N-type wireless adapter whereas the routers are b+g.

    (b) there may be a problem with the line itself (which TalkTalk denies. I don't quite believe them, but I also do realize that the problems only occurred after I started using my 2 new computers).

    (c) there may be wireless interference from my neighbours beyond my control (but I don't think that this is ery likely).

    (d) I do realize that there may be an issue of interference between the two computers, but that is a separate issue. So for example one remains connected to the internet whereas the other doesn't (while the router does stay connected).

    Apart from the tests that you suggested, I also again tried to connect to the internet via ethernet cable (all properly configured) – I had 2 disconnects over a 24 hour period. This is much better than if I had connected wirelessly, but nevertheless, the connection is still not steady even in wired state.

    So, are there any other tests that you would recommend? I like the way how you are being very methodical about things so as not to overlook anything, so I promise to be very patient 🙂 !

    Thanks again and have a great weekend !

    Paul

  108. Hi Paul,

    One thing that I didn't see you mention but maybe you did and I missed it is that I only want to use your notebook at this time. If possible, please turn the other off completely. We want the environment to be as simple as possible and having one PC in the mix instead of 2 is what we need right now.

    If that is what you have been doing since my last post, great but I just want to make sure.

    The reason I am a bit suspicious is that if your incoming line signal had a problem, I would think both systems would disconnect at the same time. I think I've see you mention that one drops connection while the other stays connected.

    a quote from your original post….

    " Internet Disconnect on 1 computer while remaining available on the other computer. This tends to happen more often with the M2010. In this case, all the lights on my router remain green".

    "On several occasions, when this happens I am getting a message “Windows System Error: There is an IP address conflict with another system on the network”. In these cases, I have to reboot my Fujitsu M2010 and after rebooting, key systems such as the keyboard become totally dysfunctional and I have to restore the computer to a prior restore point".

    I realize both of these statements were from your original post when you were using both PCs. I just want to make sure we have it down to 1 PC only. Both of those statements lead me to believe that if you were using only one PC at a time, you would not lose your connection whether it be hardwired or wireless.

    So let me know what your test results are using 1 PC only.

    I have seen IP address conflicts messages many times on a PC BUT ONLY ON A NETWORK WITH STATIC IP ADDRESSES. With DHCP addressing, NEVER have seen this message. In theory, it's not possible with DHCP so that makes sense. And if your PCs are configured for dhcp and your provider is providing you with dhcp, then we have some odd going on for sure because if your ISP is providing you with dhcp, the router is configured for dhcp and all devices are configured for dhcp and you STILL get the IP address conflict, well, let's just say I've NEVER seen that happen. And in my book, never is defined as a very, very long time. BUT you might be the very 1st person to have this occur and if so, it may take awhile to get to the bottom of it.

    Have you logged into your router to make sure it is set for dhcp and NOT static IP addressing? If you haven't done that, please do so. Let's make sure this problem is not coming from a router setting. Most routers have a button you can press to restore default settings. I would do that as well unless you've made some significant changes to your router such as adding port forwarding, changed DNS servers in the router, etc. If you haven't done anything to the router, reset it to default settings if you can find a button that allows you do that.

    Let me know how the 1 PC is doing on its own with the other one out of the picture. Let me know how it goes for you. Thanks for your patience.

  109. Dear Rick,

    Thanks for your feedback.

    1- I can confirm that the problem regularly happens with only 1 computer being in use. Most of the time, I am using only one computer at any rate, only when my wife goes online at the same time do we use both computers. So, I don't think that my main problem (the periodically dropping internet connection) is one of interference between both computers. Also, nothing has changed in how I use my computers berween my first post and now, except of course that when I make a test, such as the ones you suggest, I am of course making sure that I am testing only 1 computer at any particular time, in order to isolate the causes. But I am testing each computer in turn so that when I am giving you my feedback, you kn ow that the problem is not one attributable to one particular computer.

    2- I can also confirm 100% that all routers and computers have at all times been set to DHCP. I havce never worked with a static IP address and have confirmed this with my ISP.

    3- I have not made any fancy changes to any router, such as port forwarding or changing the DNS servers. But I have made the following changes on the advice of my ISP:

    (a) On each of the 3 routers, I have set MTU to 1432, which is what my ISP is using (I think the default setting was MTU=1458 or something of that nature; I have also tried MTU=1500, 1498, 1492,1432, 1431,1400 in turn). Changing the MTU has not made any difference to how often the connection drops, except that I do not get an internet connection with MTU set at 1400.

    (b) I have set the ADSL setting (DSL mode) to G.DMT in order to get a stable connection. This means that I have tested each of my 3 routers using each of 2 settings: G.DMT and All/Auto(Multimode). Changing the ADSL settings has made no difference to how often the internet connection keeps dropping.

    (c) I have enabled access control on each of my 3 routers, in order to make sure that only the designated MAC adresses can have acess to it. I have of course made 100% sure that the MAC addresses were the correct ones (i.e. from my wireless adapter) and that they are correct. (I have operated my Netgear router for years without problems by doing so). However, the internet connections do not drop more or less frequently depending on whether I have wireless acess control enabled or disabled.

    (d) I have changed the encryption key for my wireless network access password from the one provided by my ISP to my own, which I have used for years without problem. However, my internet connection has also dropped just as often before I made these changes on my new routers.

    (e) I have changed the channels in the Wireless settings to virtually evry channel that each router allows, without any difference in the connection drops.

    (f) In the WAN settings, I have used 2 tyoes of connection settings: (i) Nailed-up connection, and (ii) Connect on Demand with Max Idle time-out set to 0 minutes (this is also my current setting). However, which type of connection I used did not make any difference to how often the connection dropped.

    I have made no other changes to my router settings. UPnP is disabled by default; NAT is enabled by default; encapsulation is PPPoA by default and ADSL settings were by default set to Multiplexing: VC-based, VPI=0, VCA=38. I haven't changed any of these.

    4- Over the weekend, I have reset my new Huawei router to my ISP's default settings and have gone through the settings with them to make sure that they are what they are supposed to be. They are, however the connection still drops, both in wireless mode and in ethernet mode).

    5- Rick, I somehow feel that the IP address conflict that I sometimes have when both netbooks are on is not connected to the problem of the interet connection drops. I think that this is a different issue, which we can look at later. I wanted to mention it to you only so that you have the full picture, as you are certainly more knowledgeable than me about what different types of interference are possible).

    6- Regarding the possibility that the internet connection drops on one computer while remaining connected on the other, I agree with you that we look at this later and try to get one computer working at first. But I want to amend my original post to let you know that the problem does not occur primarily with the M2010, as suggested in my initial post; Instead, the problem seems to occur with whatever computer was switched on last (which in most cases, just happens to be the M2010).

    At any rate, I can confirm that the main problem of the frequent internet connection drops (i.e. the internet light going red on the router) is not related to whether I am using 1 or 2 computers at the same time. Even when I am using 2 computers at the same time, in the overwhelming number of instances, the internet connection drops for both computers at the same time and this is then indicated by a red light on the router. Again, this is the main problem, and it is separate and in addition to a problem of possible interference between the 2 computers. So therefore again, I am confirming that whatever feedback I am giving you on your tests is based on what I have observed when only 1 computer is running.

    Rick, maybe this question helps: what does it mean when the internet light on my routers goes red whereas the ADSL light remains green and steady? My understanding is that the ADSL light indicates that I get broadband access to the exchange whereas the red ISP light indicates that I cannot get acess to their server. I am puzzled that this happens even if both computers are off. My questions here are the following:

    (a) How is this possible ?

    (b) Is this my problem or my ISP's?

    (c) Can it be both? For example if it is an authentication issue having my computer's (or router's) access authenticated at my ISP's server (which I assume to be my ISP's problem), and having assured that all my usernames and passwords are correct (we have changed them a number of times and verified in each case that they are correct), is there any way in which my computer / router settings can override or invalidate my ISP's server settings? Could the problem be there?

    (d) Assuming that the problem is one of authentication with my ISP's server, could it be possible that such a problem could occur as a result of a bad telephone line? If so, how?

    (e) Assuming that there is a problem with my telephone line, how can it be explained that my ADSL light is usually steady grean whereas my ISP light goes red? I am asking this question because my ISP asserts that "my lines are OK". But my suspicion is that they may not have done the right test. So for example, they have done a test related to my broadband connection (ADSL light), but somehow missed something in relation to the authentication issue. If so, I would like to direct them to make this test, but I am not sufficiently of an expert to know exactly what to ask them. Perhaps could you help me out on this? My intuition tells me that my ISP has not made all the required tests but that I cannot identify what they may have missed because of my lack of networking expertise.

    Maybe this can help you further. Sorry for giving you so many head-scratching problems, and thanks again for all your invaluable help !

    Cheers

    Paul

  110. Hi,

    I have been having a problem for a while now with the wireless internet connection at home.

    We have always been fine all over the house having up to 2 laptops and 3 games consoles connected at the same time with perfect connection.

    A month or so ago, the connection started dropping randomly, sometimes for minutes, sometimes for hours, spent a lot of time on the phone to Virgin Media, replaced the wireless router, etc., still no better.

    A few days ago, I started to see a pattern in the signal dropping, and it is when my partner's laptop connects to the network. Suddenly all other devices cannot connect and the PC tells us that it cannot find the wireless router but my partner's laptop is connected.

    His connection however is always up and down but everything else gets 5 bars and no issues except when his laptop is switched on!

    I don't know much about this but i do find it so bizarre that all devices worked fine together up until a month or so ago and now his laptop stops everything else.

    Though my laptop still shows it has 5 bars it cannot display any web page and sometimes will go to local only.

    Can anyone make sense of this for me???

  111. Hey Paul,

    I apologize for the delay in getting back to you. I have been waiting for a good friend of mine to get back from vacation and he finally did. I talked with him at length about your situation. He does day to day dsl support so in the thick of things so to speak.

    His comments were as follows:

    When the dsl modem light goes red for sync or internet light, that means the internet connection did not made it to the modem. This typically means the problem is from the isp including but not limited to CO to home, inside wire rj11 (telephone jack), dsl modem, dsl filters, etc.

    Since the modem was replaced twice and still having problem, then we might need to replace a couple other things: rj11 from phone jack to the dsl modem and all dsl filters. If still having a problem after doing this, then its time for the ISP to step up to the plate. If you can get the ISP to do it, they can do a hard disco/reco to get the circuit moved to a different PON. For a siutation like you have where it comes and goes at random with no determined pattern, the ISP could have a piece of hardware that is working but just barely. This usually would have some impact on other people on the same circuit as you as DSL is a shared resource.

    I would definitely try a different phone jack as a good 1st step. If you have an extra DSL filter lying around, wouldn't hurt to use the new one. I rarely see one go back but you never know. Had my first bad usb cable the other yesterday. I couldn't quite believe it but replacing the cable with a known good working one solved the problem and putting the old one back in place caused the problem to come back. Never say never…..

    After you do that and the problem persists, then your ISP will need to take it from here. I would be sure and document with good detail everything you've done so it leaves no doubt where the problem lies.

    I was hoping for a unusual resolution but my dsl guy says it is pretty much still the same and technology hasn't changed much in dsl so once you've eliminated your home network, wiring, etc, then the ISP has no choice but to listen to what you have to say.

    Once again, I apologize for the delay in getting back to you. I would be very interested to hear how things work out for you.

  112. Rick, I purchased a wireless adapter (Belkin). Installed all the latest drivers and software. My problem is that anytime I try to access the internet for an extensive period of time, it tends to disconnect. And anytime I try to log onto a MMO-RPG, it generally doesn't even make the loading bar before a disconnect. At each disconnect, it will tell me that no connections are available. I can often go into my network's properties and enable the adapters radio on/off and it will promptly reconnect. (Could be by chance only…) Even as I type this out to you I've had to reconnect several times.

    If there's any exact info that you need to help with my problem, I will try my best to get that to you. Thanks in advance for your time.

  113. First the specs: Linksys Wireless-N Router WRT120N and Comcast ISP modem.

    I have an internet connection that randomly drops and then kicks back on within 5 minutes from the original disconnect. This happens anywhere from 2 to 10 times a day. I have had up to 7 devices connected at once, 5 via wireless and 2 via wired.

    2 Windows 7 machines (1 wired, 1 wireless)
    1 Windows XP
    2 Linux (ubuntu & fedora) (1 wired)
    PS3
    Sony Blu-Ray player

    During the disconnect the wired connections stay active and the wireless ones are the ones dropped. Sometimes this is a small blip, only 5 seconds, so nothing is lost or noticed but other times it is as long as 5 minutes as stated above. The security settings being used is MAC address filtering, only allowing inputted MAC addresses onto the network. I have tried a hard reset on both the router and modem, I have tried taking off all security and also tried not using MAC filtering but rather WEP, WPA, etc.

    6 of the machines are located within 10 feet of the router so distance should not be an issue. I had used this router for about 1 year now and up until last month had not had this problem, but moved and did both the hard resets and now all of a sudden this situation arises.

    Can anyone offer any ideas of what else I can troubleshoot?

  114. Dear Rick,

    Thanks for your kind reply and your patience in following up with my enquiry. And now I am sorry for not replying to you immediately – I have not been on your website recently since I have not heard from you.

    Regarding the router, it is not the DSL light that goes red, but the ISP light.

    Fortunately, however, my problem did get fixed after 4 months of writing back and forth.

    As I suspected, the problem was with my ISP. A technical engineer confirmed this. He did not tell me in detail what the problem was, but he confirmed that there were problems with getting customers' routers authenticated to their server.

    Actually I still wonder how this could be. My ISP seems to have a lot of problems like this recently. I know of other customers as well.

    What do you think: What are the possible reasons why an ISP could have problems authenticating customers to their server? Is it an issue of not having enough capacity ? Or could it be related to intrusive monitoring, for instance (given recent trends)?

    Cheers

    Paul

  115. Hi, all.

    Having some troubles and would appreciate some help. I have a Toshiba laptop with windows 7. My wireless modem is a Dynalink RTA1025W.

    2 days ago my computer stopped automatically connecting and every time the screen or computer goes into sleep mode it disconnects from the internet. My settings show that automatic connection is enabled but this does not work. (When connected, data flow is fine and it stays connected during use. All lights on the modem are green. I have tried disconnecting all power and ethernet leads from the modem and restarting. I have also tried uninstalling an automatic windows update that I received about the same time this started happening).

    When I click on the wireless network icon (bottom right) and click on my modem listed to 'connect,' it then comes up with an error message. I, then, choose the option to Troubleshoot with Windows. Every time it goes through a check and comes up with a fix and reports that it had to "reset the network adapter" due to a fault. Why does this keep happening? Can I permanently fix this?

    Thanks for your help. 🙂

  116. Hey Paul,

    Glad to hear you're back up and working.

    Unfortunately, getting to the truth of what the problem actually is virtually impossible. The list of "could be" is very long.

    Most vendors that have been around awhile have things ironed out but if they are in a rapid expansion mode, that can lead to problems. And likewise, if they are having a loss of customers, things that still work, even marginally, usually don't get fixed until they break completely in two.

    No system is perfect but overall, the customer satisfaction rate should be very good and availability should also be very high. Even with everything perfect, people run all these systems and depending on the quality of people, well, that can get ugly in a hurry too.

    If you've had little trouble until recently, I would probably tend to give them the benefit of the doubt. However if things are working one day and not the next, it may be time to switch vendors.

    Not having enough capacity could be your problem and if so, they know about this already. The question is are they prepared to make their service better or is it time to go elsewhere.

    Google is your friend. See who else is talking about it. Have to be careful though. You can find 10 people that run a company down but if that is 10 out of 10,000, then you nothing to worry about plus bad news always travels faster. It really depends on YOUR experience and how satisfied you are with the company.

    Glad to hear you are back up and working.

    Best of luck to you.

  117. I have a strange problem in that I have a wireless setup in my house, and every time we go onto a blogspot site it kicks my connection off. I can search any other site but, again, any blog kills my connection. Thoughts?

  118. My Wireless router has a very bad connection yet it is around a week old, its a NetComm, and since we first got it ive had one day in which ive actually been able to connect to the internet wirelessly with for a sustained amount of time.

  119. Hi Rick M,

    I have a D Link DIR615 wireless N router that I installed.

    Time Warner is my ISP. 1PC hard wired into the router and 1PC and 1Laptop connected Wireless.

    For some reason both the wireless PC and laptop connection will go away every few days or so. The hard wired PC will stay up. If I cycle power on the modem and the router everything connects again(for a while)

    I've tried a lot of stuff and I'm not really sure how to make everything static. The DLINK SW application interface for the router is confusing.

    If I take off the security on the router the problem seems to go away.

    Does this mean the cable modem is not an issue?

    Do you have any thoughts?

    Thanks

    David C

  120. Well I had very little faith that it would make the slightest difference, but downloading and installing the latest driver directly from the manufacturer fixed my problem. FYI, other laptops work flawlessly on my home network, but mine was dropping its connection a couple of times an hour. To be clear, I can get a fully functional wireless connection, then it just drops randomly. I downloaded the latest driver even though Windows XP said it was up to date, and I have not dropped my connection in the last 8 hours. I originally just chalked it up to random interference, but when my wife's new laptop stayed connected continually I knew it had to be my laptop. Thanks for the great hint – I recommend everyone at least start here if you have the same issue I was having.

  121. Hi, I hope you can help with another router problem. We have a MAC desktop connected to our N router on the LAN and a Window's Vista laptop on the wireless. The router keeps dropping the internet connection even to the MAC (which is wired via the LAN.) This is the second router (we upgraded to an "N"). We were good for about two weeks, then it started going out.

    I spent 4 hours on the phone with the router compay support and we reset everyting twice. I can connect, but eventually the internet will drop. I think it may be the MAC, but I don't know much about MACs. Any ideas for us? I am at my wits end over this. Thanks in advance.

  122. My Linksys WRT54G wireless router had been randomly loosing the ability to find web addresses (DNS issue, i think) from a wireless device and sometimes my hardwired desktop, too. I've had to reset my router and redo my wireless password to fix it and although it only happened 3 or 4 times a month, it was always when I was running late and needed to quickly get directions or something. Anyway, it happened twice in 48 hours so I found this post, updated my firmware to 4.21.1 (realeased in 2005), and my iPod was able to connect again immediately afterward (without resetting anything) so I'm pretty sure this was the permanent fix! This was such an inconvenient little problem to deal with all the time and I'm so glad it's over. Thanks a ton for the advice!!!

  123. I'll give it a try (downloading/reinstalling) the latest version of the Intel(R) PRO/wireless driver from the Dell website. I think I have the latest, since my laptop crashed a month ago and I installed a new hard drive. Everything needed to be replaced, and that's when the wireless card started dropping the NETGEAR router connection. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks.

  124. My wireless router works perfectly fine, Latest Firmware ect.

    2 wired computers, 2 laptops, and a PS3 going off the wireless signal

    Throughout the day not sure when this happens but the wireless signal stops producing, and no laptop/ps3 can connect to it, simply cause there is no wireless signal to pick up

    Although both wired computers can still use the internet through the router.

    Thje only way to bring the wireless signal (ive found out) was to unplug the router and plug it in again after 10 sec.

    Is there a setting that is messing with the signal, is it the router dead? is it the main computer thats is messing with it?

    Please help, this is very annoying

  125. Rick, I'm at a company where our computers are hard wired, but we have a router (D-Link DIR-615) hooked up for wireless devices. Every day we have to unplug the router to reset the connection. It is encrypted with a WPA2 connection. I saw in a previous post that possibly going back to a WEP connection, this might solve the problem. I haven't tried that because it is a less secure option. I've been told by our IT guy that the firmware is up to date and probably the easiest fix would be to buy a new router instead of spending countless hours trying new troubleshooting ideas. Given this info, do you have any suggestions about why the router might be losing a signal? Is it possible that getting a new router might fix this problem?

    Thanks

  126. 'Pete' who posted towards the top of the thread is completely right. The author of this blog obviously has no idea what he is talking about. Indeed, if you're not connecting at ALL, it's possible/likely that you overlooked an upper/lower case letter or something similar. (That's probably what's going on with those who claimed 'success', they probably had trouble following the original blog post and mistakenly thought that their noob problem was similar to the author's problem)

    But if you're actually successfully connecting and then your connection starts dropping, which is what this blog entry is about, then it is absolutely not possible that this is a matter of lower/upper case. As Pete said, there is no such as a partial connection for a partial key.

    So while this whole thread is loltastic, I hope those posting their problems find good answers elsewhere, because the author clearly has limited IT skills. Unfortunately the internet is full of self-styled 'experts' giving bad advice.

  127. Hi Rick,

    I have to say I admire the dedication and patience that you show. How you routinely churn our long missives is impressive in the extreme.

    Anyway, I was just writing to say that I followed your advice shown at the beginning of this thread and it has solved my problem.

    Many thanks.

    KTBFFH

  128. Hello-

    I have a desktop (no wireless capability) plugged into a Belkin Surf N300 wireless router, which is plugged into my modem. I have a desktop upstairs that connects wirelessly to this router and haven't had any problems until today. Connection drops and is variable (local stays connected, just not internet). As my kids use the upstairs computer, their whining is driving me crazy.

    The computer upstairs runs Vista 64-bit and according to the system, the USB driver associated with the Belkin (I'm guessing) is up to date. I couldn't find a wireless card under network adaptors though.

    I've checked that everything is plugged in correctly and even re-oriented the router and that helped initially but not consistently.

    If you have any suggestions, I'd sure appreciate them!

    Thanks!

    Babs

  129. Hey Rick,

    Wonderful job.

    I have a netgear DGN1000 router which connects wireless to two pcs and one ipad.

    The problem is that now and then the connected devices will lose connectivity to the router. Specifically they can all see the network (network name appears on network list) but they cannot access the router (through router home page)and thus the internet.

    I hava tried connecting with the router my isp gave me and I have no such problems. My question is, could this problem be caused from a bad router, or have i somehow overlooked a router setting?

    Thanks in advance

  130. forgot to mention,

    running windows xp, windows 7 on pcs

    The only way to resolve the problem once connectivity is lost is to reset the router.

    I have update router firmware but the problem was not resolved

  131. Hi! I have an old Linksys Wireless B 2.4 GHz router that I’ve had for several years. Yes…it is old. It drops the connection approximately every 2 hours…right on cue. I’ll try the previous suggestions but what I’m most curious about is that I am unable to connect 2 computers online at the same time. If one is connected, the other computer is unable to make a connection. By disconnecting one computer, resetting the router and connecting on the other one am I only able to go online with the other. It is either one or the other. Any ideas?

  132. Rick,

    Hello! My husband and I seem to have an unusual problem with our internet dragging at times. When this happens, I look at my connection bar and usually I see ours and a neighbor or two and a connection called LuckyHorse. We have a Netgear WPN824N. Our modem is from a local telephone company called Natco and is called a zoom. We have 2 toshiba laptops that run Win 7. This dragging is at random times and sometimes it is only for a few minutes or an hour or so. Any suggestions?

  133. Rick,

    First off thanks so much for offering this great service and the help / knowledge and experience you are sharing. This is a GREAT and free resource and I can tell from early on you know exactly what you are talking about. So “Thank YOU..!” I say that for all of us whether we’ve mentioned it enough or not…

    Now I have a bizarre but similar problem an I didn’t see it addressed yet but maybe some other people have and you have a suggestion.

    My problem is not with the Router though. I can honestly say that up front unless it’s an age issue. (5-7) years and I do understand routers work on dog years but still…

    I do get drops occasionally but I work through them and they typically happen as a result of a program. As in not wanting to let go maybe when you close it (Vuze and other BitTorrent clients)

    But my router is properly set up with the name and encryption key that I set myself so it’s not that. I’ve set up routers for years and that’s the easy part.

    What I can’t figure out though is my DVD BluRay player Media Center. It boots well, connects well, and that’s more or less where the “wellness” ends. I have an option as all media centers do to choose what device I want to connect and stream from. After startup the BluRay media player finds all devices (I have three laptops, a desktop and a 5 slot USB extender.) and it will connect to any of them. But after 10 minutes it ALWAYS drops the Laptops and wireless devices and will only stream from the direct connected USB extender. This direct connection has never failed so it has to be a wireless issue. I do have another DVD player with a direct connect media player but it is very old and cumbersome and because it’s cable to cable it has no bearing on this. Anyway…

    After about 5 minutes it seems to re-poll the router and pull those back in as choices but this is no help when streaming when you get 10 minutes and a drop.

    So my question is this… Do you think this could be somehow router related (Maybe some timeout security setting I’m unfamiliar with..? The confusing aspect is that sometimes this does NOT happen and I can stream a whole movie. But that is very rare, and 99% of the time I get drop after drop and then re-poll, re-find, reconnect, and 10 more minutes to the next drop.

    If you have any suggestions at all please pass them on. Clearly I’ve run out of ideas. Also if it matters this is a simple $400 Samsung BD-something-or-other. It’s always connected I(wireless) and updates itself and it’s firmware so I know it;’s fully updated. Though I know and understand it’s not any high end or proper media device. I have NO other issues streaming anything and I feel it has to be the Samsung, but they are no help and I know it’s a long shot but maybe you’ve run across something similar before and have some insight.

    Thanks again

    -Don

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